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Thread: you might want to rethink your oil you use

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    Holy tl;dr. I'll have to come back and see if I can interpret that later
    1995 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo
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    Yeah that shit is way too long to even consider reading. There needs to be a major cliffs done up.

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    Is that one of those wear bearing tests?
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    I pulled that I should just keep using:

    Quote Originally Posted by from article
    0W30 Amsoil Signature Series 25,000 miles, API SN synthetic = 105,008 psi
    zinc = 824 ppm
    phosphorus = 960 ppm
    moly = 161 ppm
    calcium = 3,354 ppm
    TBN = 11.4

    Wear protection reference categories are:

    • Over 105,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection

    • 90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection

    • 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection

    • 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST wear protection

    • Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE wear protection
    And not worry about it being too thin (10W30 vs W30)

    Quote Originally Posted by from article
    Here you can see how the thicker oil flowed more slowly through the bearings, thus getting hotter, driving up bearing temperatures and increasing sump temperatures. And the thinner oil flowed more freely and quickly through the bearings, thus cooling and lubricating them better than thicker oil, while also reducing sump temperatures. If an engine is running hot, use a thinner oil to increase flow, increase internal component cooling, and help keep sump temperatures down. Keeping oil temps down is important to help keep oil below the threshold of thermal breakdown.

    • Thinner oil will typically increase HP because of less viscous drag and reduced pumping losses, compared to thicker oils. That is why very serious Race efforts will generally use watery thin oils in their engines. But, an exception to this increase in HP would be in high rpm hydraulic lifter engines, where thinner oil can allow the lifters to malfunction at very high rpm. In everyday street vehicles, where fuel consumption is a consideration, thinner oils will also typically increase fuel economy. The majority of new cars sold in the U.S. now call for 5W20 specifically for increased fuel economy. And now Diesel trucks are increasingly calling for 5W30, also for fuel economy improvement.

    • With the exception of high rpm hydraulic lifter engines, almost no engine should ever need to run oil thicker than a multi-viscosity 30 weight. The lower the first number cold viscosity rating, the better the cold flow. For example, 0W30 flows WAY better cold than 20W50. And 0W30 flows WAY better cold than straight 30wt, which is horrible for cold start-up flow and should be avoided at all cost. And the lower the second number hot viscosity rating, the better the hot flow. For example, 0W30 flows WAY better hot than 20W50.

    • Thicker oil DOES NOT automatically provide better wear protection than thinner oils. Extensive “dynamic wear testing under load” of over 100 motor oils, has shown that the base oil and its additive package “as a whole”, is what determines an oil’s wear protection capability, NOT its viscosity. For example, some 5W20 oils have proven to provide OUTSTANDING wear protection, while some 15W50 oils have only been able to provide MODEST wear protection. So, do not run thicker oil under the false assumption that it can provide better wear protection for our engines.

    BOTTOM LINE: Thinner oils are better for most engine lubrication needs.
    Oh and a product: Prolong Engine Treatment is a motor oil additive that testing showed significantly improves an oil’s wear protection capability.

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    Reasonable summation, GU.

    That captures the nub of things, apart from the guy's bonafides and the results/rankings.

    I actually feel pretty good that I've been using Castrol GTX 5w30 (which he ranks #2 out of 133) - however, I'm glad I read enough of it to catch the discussion of weights/viscosities; I was about to do an oil change and switch to 10w40.

    I think I'll stick with the 5w30.
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    His viscosity conclusions are a gross oversimplification.
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    Quote Originally Posted by j2k4 View Post
    Reasonable summation, GU.

    That captures the nub of things, apart from the guy's bonafides and the results/rankings.

    I actually feel pretty good that I've been using Castrol GTX 5w30 (which he ranks #2 out of 133) - however, I'm glad I read enough of it to catch the discussion of weights/viscosities; I was about to do an oil change and switch to 10w40.

    I think I'll stick with the 5w30.
    That's what I normally use. That or 10w30 in the summer.

    Edit: my god! he wrote a f-ing book didn't he? took up half the net
    Last edited by green-lantern; 07-31-2014 at 07:02 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    His viscosity conclusions are a gross oversimplification.
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    He DID make some concessions re viscosity in race situations.

    What's your view, Chris?

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    The point of running more viscous oil is to keep the film thickness between the crank and bearing shells. High power cars with marginal crankshafts like ours are trying to squeeze that oil out. Once it gets squeezed out the crank can touch the bearing and beat it up.

    The higher the oil pressure the harder it is for the oil to get squeezed out. I think of it like a stiffer spring. I don't know if that is technically correct, but ray says the high power cars live longer with more pressure.


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    Last edited by Chris@Rvengeperformance; 07-31-2014 at 08:54 AM.

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