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Thread: Trying to figure out why my reman 6-speed is failing...

  1. #31
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    Already ordered a new fork/ball from Ninja
    1995 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo
    Mods: DR750s, BC Sportsman rods, Ross pistons, ACT HD 6 puck clutch, 5 speed transmission, 300M output shaft, Broomfield racing billet transfer case housings, Spectre air filter, GM 3.75" MAF w/translator, DN Pre-turbo pipes, Pampena/CX Racing dual core FMIC, M2 Performance turbo-back exhaust, Walbro 450lph E85 pump, SXPerformance fuel filter, stainless fuel feed lines, EK2 Mfg fuel rails, SXPerformance AFPR, 1000cc Bosch injectors, 99 VR4 replica ECU w/ Chrome for tuning, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark, Blitz SBC i-D boost controller, IPS oil cooler, Intrax springs on KYB GR2 struts, Enkei Kojin 18X9.5 +30, Nexen N3000s, 99 front end, carbon fiber steering wheel, Pioneer AVH-X2600BT, JL C2 6.5" and 6"x9" speakers, free 4 channel amp for subs (LOL), twin Alpine 10" type E subs.

    Made 608whp/631wtrq on Pampena's dyno @ 31 psi.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4 View Post
    That's looks to be a lot of play between that ball and fork, mine has no play. Judging by the absolute lack of grease where there should be grease, I would say the clip on the backside of the clutch fork has worn out. I think it's popped out and can't hold itself in maybe? Mine does not move up and down so easily when it's popped on the ball. That ball and fork recess should be packed with wheel bearing grease or equivalent. Check the manual and start greasing what it says to grease. Excellent video btw.

    Quote Originally Posted by DK77 View Post
    So would the fork not being shimmed properly potentially cause the TOB/gear rattle that annoys me so much?
    You sure it's not the clutch rivets? I haven't had a TOB rattle ever, even though I assume its TOB everytime, it's always the clutch rivets. When exactly does it do it?
    1997 3000GT VR4 - Solano Black Pearl - E85 - E316G-BIG - All the boost
    1993 3000GT VR4 - Maroon/Blacktop - Back to stock/Restoration
    1994 Stealth R/T - Primer - Parts store

  3. #33
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    What I'm talking about is when you let off the clutch pedal my car rattles from the trans/clutch area. If I press the pedal far enough for the clutch to start disengaging the rattle goes away. I always assumed TOB until I replaced it with a new OEM one and had the same issue. I've now had this issue with 3 different clutch set ups; 3 different transmissions; 3 different TOBs; and at least 2 clutch forks. It drives me nuts. I've heard that it's a rattle internally in the transmission having to do with bearing clearances or backlash or something like that. I don't know how to fix it but it's kind of embarrassing lol.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by DK77 View Post
    What I'm talking about is when you let off the clutch pedal my car rattles from the trans/clutch area. If I press the pedal far enough for the clutch to start disengaging the rattle goes away. I always assumed TOB until I replaced it with a new OEM one and had the same issue. I've now had this issue with 3 different clutch set ups; 3 different transmissions; 3 different TOBs; and at least 2 clutch forks. It drives me nuts. I've heard that it's a rattle internally in the transmission having to do with bearing clearances or backlash or something like that. I don't know how to fix it but it's kind of embarrassing lol.
    That's the exact scenario I had with the stock clutch, XTD 3, and Spec 4+ (twice). All were clutch rivets loose. I would sit at stoplights with the clutch pedal pushed in so it wouldn't embarrass me. I could also make it not rattle if I let the clutch pedal out VERY slowly. If something inside the trans was rattling that often and loud enough for you to hear in the cabin, you would have all kinds of metal in your trans oil. Not saying it couldn't be something else, but that's all it ever has been for me. Usually make it a few thousand miles on a new clutch before it starts happening. I think it's the launches that causes it to loosen up.

  5. #35
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    Interesting... This has happened with a SPEC stage 2 disc, an OEM disc, and right now an ACT 6 puck unsprung. This clutch did it right away with no abuse on it at all. I've only launched the car once but it was rattling even before that. So is that something I could have fixed when I put the new clutch in? Like have a machine shop put in beefier rivets?
    Last edited by DK77; 08-15-2014 at 03:22 PM.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by DK77 View Post
    Interesting... This has happened with a SPEC stage 2 disc, an OEM disc, and right now an ACT 6 puck unsprung. This clutch did it right away with no abuse on it at all. I've only launched the car once but it was rattling even before that. So is that something I could have fixed when I put the new clutch in? Like have a machine shop put in beefier rivets?
    If that's the issue, then yes. Not sure a machine shop will do it, but I have local clutch/brake rebuilding/manufacturing company that will let you ship in your clutch. They're making my custom clutch and fixing my Spec 4+ again right now. I haven't had it happen immediately after a new clutch install with any of the clutches, just after a bunch of launches and a few thousand miles, so your issue could be different entirely. Sounds like you've eliminated everything to do with the transmission with all the parts you've been through.

  7. #37
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    problem found. see attachment
    Attached Images Attached Images
    95 TD05 16G VR-4---540whp@24psi
    34XXlbs..

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  9. #38
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    that'll do it, lol

  10. #39
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    It dun broke!

  11. #40
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    After inspecting the new fork and ball that arrived in the mail, I'm thinking that my rattle issue is due to the retainer clip being bent/worn. It was not nearly as hard to put the old fork on the ball as it is with the new one.

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