6G72TT Engine Rebuild - Don't let me screw this up

[Alex3000gt]

Preface
Bought this "80,000 mile, good condition" long-block in 2012 after spinning bearings at NG12. Put around a thousand miles on this engine and discovered glitter in the oil before storing the car in Fall 2013. Decided to do my first engine rebuild.

So using this video, I have successfully blueprinted my block and crankshaft:


Here is my dial bore gauge measurement data, data adjusted into actual diameters (adjusting for tool error), calculated out-of-round & calculated cylinder wear from nominal bore diameter:

For reference, if the engine was in the car, Cyl #1 is driver's side front, #2 is driver's side rear. Then "Front-to-Back" is front of the car to back of car cylinder dimension. "Left-to-Right" is drivers side to passenger side of car cylinder dimension.
I went ahead and made the "wear table" a temperature chart for ease of viewing:


Pictures:


Center main bearings took a beating.

Close-up of bearing #1 (Closest to oil pump)

#2 Main Bearing

Another Picture.

I micrometered the crankshaft and all journals are perfect circles with zero taper.

Now what? Don't let me screw this up.

[Alex3000gt]

I am thinking of going with a forged crank ($866.45 on mitsparts.com) and getting the block machined.

I'm looking at you, guy lurking on this thread. Does this block need machined? Would you replace this crankshaft?

[anyonebutme]

:shrugs shoulders:

Doesn't the manual specify an out of round tolerance? if it exceeds factory spec, bore.

[Alex3000gt]

:shrugs shoulders:

Doesn't the manual specify an out of round tolerance? if it exceeds factory spec, bore.

You're right, it is .0008", so everything in Red above exceeds that.

I think I was just hoping for some sort of magic sage-like answer of "Oh, you can just throw new bearings in there and be good." Which, admittedly, is optimistic and foolish.

Time to start calling machine shops for the overbore, I guess. Know anyone reputable in Indianapolis?

[Uniuno]

Jafro is the shit!

I think for a little over that cost you could have Ray machine you a 74 crank to fit in your engine and have a stroker. Just saying..

[DocWalt]

A hone would bring that back within tolerance, assuming they use torque plates and such. If you don't want to reuse the pistons may as well overbore though.

[Alex3000gt]

A hone would bring that back within tolerance, assuming they use torque plates and such. If you don't want to reuse the pistons may as well overbore though.

Yeah, I was just looking into that. Pistons are expensive.

I am going to get the crank measured for straightness and go from there.

[Djmba]

If the bearings are that worn, there is a good chance the crank may have been scuffed or damaged. Can you feel any scratches or anything on the journals with your fingernail? When you get it checked out by the machine shop, ask them if you can just polish the journals or if it will need to be ground.

Going with a new OEM crank like you have stated isn't a bad idea at all. However, if you want to save a little, there are plenty of used crankshafts with good condition standard journals available for around $350 +/- in the classifieds section. Donniekak is a great seller who sells these often.

[Alex3000gt]

I cannot feel any scratches or grooves which catch my fingernail. However, the bearings definitely have grooves which catch my finger nail.

[Djmba]

If that's the case then you should be able to just polish the journals.

Also, I know for sure donniekak is a member on the other forum because that is who/where I got mine from, but I am not sure about 3sgto, as I don't frequent this forum much. I pretty much just stalk build threads here. Lol.