Agree. Not the FPR...
I think you want to enable the O2 heater functions. If they throw codes then you know that they are not hooked up correctly in the Jester ECU.
Agree. Not the FPR...
I think you want to enable the O2 heater functions. If they throw codes then you know that they are not hooked up correctly in the Jester ECU.
I think all the heater tests do is turn on the heater power and verify that the current draw is within specs. I don't think it has anything to do with whether or not you have emissions equipment. Turn on the test and see. If it turns on the heater and there is no current draw you found your problem.
Note that 91-95 cars will definitely throw codes for these because those wires don't hook up to anything in those car's harness. That's why you are advised to disable them.
ok, so last night before I got interrupted I reset the ecu and went for a drive with narrowband, open loop, o2 heater functions and checks on and I didnt throw any lights. I will check for codes tonight with handheld to see if there are any hidden ones. New fpr should be in this afternoon so hopefully I should have ruled that out by tonight.

I'm so confused reading this thread.......
2014 Exomotive Exocet - #101 "shocker yellow" - 1.8L 5-speed 3.9 torsen FMII powered
Read more: http://mevowners.proboards.com/threa.../greg-pa-build
99 Solano Black VR4 - #16 of 287 - ground up restoration - sold
98 Pearl White VR4 #54 of 231 - 12.84@105mph - 93 Octane 12.50@107mph - 100 Octane with Chromed ECU - sold
99 Pearl White VR4 #108 of 287 - 3RD place stock car class ECG 11 - Sold
98 Black VR4: 100% stock - totalled by an Illegal 2-12-08
95 White Stealth TT - 11.852 @ 118.25 - sold
95 SSG Stealth TT - 11.981 @ 115.81mph - sold
"I don't actually work on cars, I just talk about them on the internet."

I don't understand any of the closed loop stuff. It either works, or it doesn't. Do the narrowbands cycle? Yes? Then why fuck with the jumpers?? Why are you tuning open loop? The car has to run good in closed loop before you can play with that.
You suspect fuel pressure is the issue. Why haven't you setup a way to read it? Have you verified your source for the pressure regulator is good??? I've never seen a regulator randomly go bad especially after it worked since before you took the car apart. Again, these things work or they don't. Guess and check mechanics will empty your wallet fast.
yes the narrowbands cycle. 3sx even replaced an o2 sensor because one was cycling to slow. I moved the jumper back and forth because the only way the narrowbands do cycle is the opposite of jesters directions per his webpage. This indicates to me that there is either an issue with the ecu or the picture of how it is supposed to be setup is wrong. In any case i was simply trying to exhaust all options because so far becasue so far nobody, including 3sx has been able to sort this out. obviously closed loop is not working as it should. I have not tuned anything open or closed loop and dont plan to, thats what I paid 3SX a ton of money to do. They said the car is dialed in lows mids and highs but for some reason the car does not want to maintain a good idle and something is making it bog. Honestly I do not understand how they tuned the car at all the way it is running but thats another issue.
As far as fuel pressure goes, I did set up a way to read it, but they broke the elbow that attaches to the fitting that attaches to the rail. So it has taken me a few days to find one. the regulator was working on the dyno, but confirmed it was bieng overran with around 58 base pressure. thats why I ordered a new AEM FPR so I could rule out fpr overrun as the problem since this issue started 2 minutes after the hotwire, and it was hotwired before with a smaller pump with no issues.
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