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Thread: Bitching about a 4g in a 3000GT

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    Quote Originally Posted by Streamln1 View Post
    How is this turning out dude? I think the thing that would concern me is the tiny output shaft and transfer case that the DSM has which seems to be suited better for a lighter car, curious what you did about that? Im sure you addressed it somewhere in this thread but I don't want to read all 24 pages.
    His car weighs about the same as a stock 2g Dsm. The automatics are also way easier on drivetrain components as they are all preloaded on the launch.

    An added bonus feature is that breaking Dsm parts is really cheap anyway.

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    Bitching about a 4g in a 3000GT

    Quote Originally Posted by Streamln1 View Post
    How is this turning out dude? I think the thing that would concern me is the tiny output shaft and transfer case that the DSM has which seems to be suited better for a lighter car, curious what you did about that? Im sure you addressed it somewhere in this thread but I don't want to read all 24 pages.
    So far so good. Even with welded center diff. I've launched it ~100 times on the street. Track with more grip may be different story. May buy a brace which is supposed to help with the tiny tail shaft. As Donnie said, my car is down to 2g DSM weight and there are a few pushing a lot of power near my weight. I've got some easy weight to pull out yet. Full stereo system with three amps 18/19" street wheels and tires. Auto is easier on drivetrain and I also have my launch setup to be slightly soft for just a split second, before all the timing and boost comes in hard.

    Car trapped 128 at the shootout at only 28psi. Much more than I expected with auto and restalled converter. I've run up to 38 on the street. 38 is A LOT more fun than 28. Only ran 11.8 because I didn't have enough fuel in the stock tank and kept running lean in first and hitting my AEM safety features for lean out protection which cuts fuel entirely. Spent a ton of time not accelerating (logged 1.1 secs of fuel cut.) Hot-lapping for max effort class runs, so no time for more fuel.

    Also super soft launch because I was nervous with hot-lapping and kept forgetting to neutral rev to get vacuum for brakes and would pull through before I got to my launch rpm and boost. 1.8 60ft is soooo soft compared to what it will do on the street. Would've hit fuel cut anyway so doesn't matter. Installing a vacuum pump for brakes, triggered by brake switch so I never have to worry about it again.

    Unfortunately, an oil filter backed off and blew the gasket a few weeks ago, losing all of my oil before I noticed. Currently assembling a 2.0 for more revs in preparation of hopefully more trap speed. Oil filter will be clamped so it can't back off.
    Last edited by familyMAN; 11-15-2015 at 11:08 AM.
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

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    I think it would be fun to play around with an auto from an awd 3/s

    Ditto on the dsm parts being cheap

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    So how did you handle the axles etc obviously not being the right length?

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    Bitching about a 4g in a 3000GT

    From my build thread on other forum....
    Quote Originally Posted by eengler2 View Post

    Passenger axle is 91-92 fwd auto axle that I uses for auto swap on v6.

    Driver axle is "custom" mix of stock parts. I swapped the cv inner cup from the driver axle onto an extra pass axle. I needed it shorter and a pass axle is the correct length but is "male" instead of "female." The cup is a little different sized but the rollers are the same diameter and they ride on shafts so they seem to extend out to where they need to. It makes sense when you take them both apart and stare at it. I need to drive it to make sure it actually works and doesn't fly apart. If it doesn't work, I'll just get custom axles or try to find something that swaps exactly how I need it. It rolls back and forth in garage without binding.
    The axles are still a hair too long to be perfect. Bought some DSM axles that are 3/4" shorter to play with swapping CV cups. (Hub splines are smaller on DSM.)
    Last edited by familyMAN; 11-16-2015 at 10:25 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Streamln1 View Post
    I think it would be fun to play around with an auto from an awd 3/s

    Ditto on the dsm parts being cheap
    The gearing of the autos isn't great for a 6g7x. But there are custom transfer gears that don't break, and have different ratios available.

    The auto awd 3s transmission is the same as the dsm transmission. They just have different bellhousings.

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    Yeah, I figured that out a while ago, the auto discussion has came up a couple times, If I were building a drag only car I would probably consider it. Driving a stick is just too much fun. Funny how many more AWD options there were in Japan.

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    I can make a believer out of most people for auto with a quick blast down my road. It's a lot of fun to shift at 9400 rpm with no pause in acceleration or boost for the next gear. It's a riot.

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    Quote Originally Posted by familyMAN View Post
    I can make a believer out of most people for auto with a quick blast down my road. It's a lot of fun to shift at 9400 rpm with no pause in acceleration or boost for the next gear. It's a riot.
    Don't get me wrong E, your car is a riot and the auto makes it feel even faster than it is. That said, I'd probably still take a manual for my kind of driving personally (probably because I have no interest in trying to spin a 6G up to 9k+ RPMs). I would say however, that if more people rode in that car, there probably would be significantly more auto AWD cars in the community.
    Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
    Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts

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    U using beehives for that rpm range? Im rooting for ya man..its a weird build but the dsm parts are a plenty and thats an easy motor to build

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