So far so good. Even with welded center diff. I've launched it ~100 times on the street. Track with more grip may be different story. May buy a brace which is supposed to help with the tiny tail shaft. As Donnie said, my car is down to 2g DSM weight and there are a few pushing a lot of power near my weight. I've got some easy weight to pull out yet. Full stereo system with three amps18/19" street wheels and tires. Auto is easier on drivetrain and I also have my launch setup to be slightly soft for just a split second, before all the timing and boost comes in hard.
Car trapped 128 at the shootout at only 28psi. Much more than I expected with auto and restalled converter. I've run up to 38 on the street. 38 is A LOT more fun than 28. Only ran 11.8 because I didn't have enough fuel in the stock tank and kept running lean in first and hitting my AEM safety features for lean out protection which cuts fuel entirely. Spent a ton of time not accelerating (logged 1.1 secs of fuel cut.) Hot-lapping for max effort class runs, so no time for more fuel.
Also super soft launch because I was nervous with hot-lapping and kept forgetting to neutral rev to get vacuum for brakes and would pull through before I got to my launch rpm and boost. 1.8 60ft is soooo soft compared to what it will do on the street. Would've hit fuel cut anyway so doesn't matter. Installing a vacuum pump for brakes, triggered by brake switch so I never have to worry about it again.
Unfortunately, an oil filter backed off and blew the gasket a few weeks ago, losing all of my oil before I noticed. Currently assembling a 2.0 for more revs in preparation of hopefully more trap speed. Oil filter will be clamped so it can't back off.![]()
Last edited by familyMAN; 11-15-2015 at 11:08 AM.
1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.
I think it would be fun to play around with an auto from an awd 3/s
Ditto on the dsm parts being cheap
1993 VR-4
Engine -
DR stage 3 heads, dual springs, wiseco piston, Ninja rods
IPS catback
IPS Turbo manifolds with MHI E16G
Custom Downpipe
Custom FMIC kit
Suspension -
BC Racing coilovers
Solid / Poly busings
Wilwood Superlite BBK powdercoated gloss black
So how did you handle the axles etc obviously not being the right length?
Last edited by familyMAN; 11-16-2015 at 10:25 AM.
Yeah, I figured that out a while ago, the auto discussion has came up a couple times, If I were building a drag only car I would probably consider it. Driving a stick is just too much fun. Funny how many more AWD options there were in Japan.
I can make a believer out of most people for auto with a quick blast down my road. It's a lot of fun to shift at 9400 rpm with no pause in acceleration or boost for the next gear. It's a riot.
Don't get me wrong E, your car is a riot and the auto makes it feel even faster than it is. That said, I'd probably still take a manual for my kind of driving personally (probably because I have no interest in trying to spin a 6G up to 9k+ RPMs). I would say however, that if more people rode in that car, there probably would be significantly more auto AWD cars in the community.
Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts
U using beehives for that rpm range? Im rooting for ya man..its a weird build but the dsm parts are a plenty and thats an easy motor to build
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