It's RPM is calculated from the cam/crank signals. That is the actual RPM of the engine. That RPM input from the PTU should really just mirror the signals sent to the PTU to fire the coils, so the ECU doesn't need that for RPM measurement. The purpose of that RPM feedback is really more for a misfire diagnostic on the OEM ECU. I don't know if AEM actually used the RPM input for that, but I would suspect that they don't.
Another potential plus of using the RPM output from the AEM, is that the tach signal might be smoother when you are on the rev limit or launch limiter.
Are you going to mount the turbo front facing?
Current Car:
2011 Chevrolet Corvette GrandSport
Cars Owned:
1992 Dodge Stealth RT (sold)
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 #1 (parted)
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 #2 (sold)
1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 #1 (KIA)
1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 #2 (sold)
1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (sold)
1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT Base - awd/atx (sold)
1997 Mitsubishi 3000gt VR4 (sold)
2006 Pontiac GTO (sold/traded)
2008 Chevrolet Corvette 3LT (z51)
Brad thanks again for a possible simple solution. I will definitely try it this weekend and let everyone know.
Audible, not sure on what turbo I'm going to get yet. Forward facing is not really on the list since there isn't a good place to get fresh air without completely redoing my FMIC and radiator setup that current works well. So many good options for turbos to choose from its tough to decide....simple bolt on...red or black...T3 cast mani (couple cost effective options) with an HX40 T3 or something PTE 62/6466...or build or buy a T4 twinscroll and really work an HX40 or various other options.
Need to shake out these little bugs first and get settled in new house. Really considering finding another 2.4 block and building a whole long block that I can just drop-in in a few hours.
1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.
Help them, for they know not that which they do not know!
CoopKill's Mistress Makeover Thread!
"Punk, Nutswinging, Small Time, Asshat, Monkey, Jerkoff, Loser that rides on other peoples accomplishments!" ..
It takes me 3hrs to pull a 6g including removing hood and front bumper and not rushing to set a record. 4g may be a little less since radiator can stay in, alt can stay on and intake mani can stay on. Installation is a little quicker since my mtr mts were made to fit my car so they fit better than the maximal solids I have for the 6g which always fight me a little. Not much difference in time for removing an engine though.
Yeah I guess it only took my 3.5hrs this last go...
Stock 3S tach connections
IMAG1105[1].jpgIMAG1106[1].jpgIMAG1107[1].jpg
Hood is on now after some trimming. Angle of engine is perfect. Any more forward tilt and Tcase angle is off and rear of timing belt would be too close. Any less forward tilt and front of timing belt would definitely hit. I "think" I can fit a timing cover, but need to order one to check. That would definitely make me feel better.
May need some solid subframe bushings up front. I watched the engine jiggle a little on a mild shift when I took a lap around the block without a hood and open downpipe. Engine also settled when off hoist on the bushings and I know the mounts aren't moving when at rest. Oh yeah, I guess I forgot to state...........It drives!!!! My Frankenstein'd engine and Frankenstein'd driver side CV Axle worksGot it up to 60mph according to log (sorry neighbors!)
Couldn't remember if I posted this. Driver's mount and front roll stop. Still need to make a rear roll stop. Not really a big deal until I start launching it.
Nothing earth shattering, but it works.
Needs tuned badly. Will work on that over the weekend if I get time. Slow as poop with no timing and really rich, but it has instant spool with a 6cm 14b on a 2.4 9:1 with e85..lol. Proof of concept complete. Pilot phase testing over next 3 months, then final stage in 5 months![]()
Last edited by familyMAN; 05-24-2014 at 10:51 PM.
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