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Thread: Greddy type s BOV not holding past 20psi or so

  1. #41
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    Which way is recommended? I've always heard recirc is best so you don't lose metered air.

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    Recirc if you are draw through.

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  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimvr4 View Post
    Which way is recommended? I've always heard recirc is best so you don't lose metered air.
    This matters if you are running a draw through MAF. If running no MAF (ie MAP) then it doesn't matter. As per Forest Gump's post, it implies "Blow through" also does not matter.

    When I switched from my Blitz system which was running a vent to atmo plus using the stock rec adapter and stock ecu the car ran fine. The stock BOV/rec adapter started the old hooting owl trick so I simply removed it and went pure vent to atmo and the car would stumble after it "blew off". I switched to a TurboXS Racing Bypass Valve [setup like the stock system] and the problem went away. I have since gone standalone ECU and MAP so it no longer matters.
    Last edited by GTOJOE; 05-04-2014 at 06:41 AM.
    1990 JDM GTO TT with Vi-PEC plug-in V44 EMS, TD04-13T's, 3SX Downpipe, MP Hi-flow cat, ARC SMIC's, Aeromotive Stealth 340LPH pump, Fuelab 515 FPR, Ninja Performance 75amp hotwire kit, oohnoo fuel loop & rail adapters, Nylon braided ethanol fuel line, NGK AFX Wideband, K&N FIPK, Iridium plugs, HKS Twin Power DLI, Turbo XS racing BOV, 3SX poly mounts, Custom 280km/h speedo.

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  4. #44
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    Got a log of it on the street. Apparently happening at about 19psi as well. Showed up as single psi blip and I could hear the bov flutter. It was worse with more boost. BOV came in but the adapter won't be in until Friday.


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