My 2014 Refresh/ 6G74TT conversion

[Uniuno]

Got everything buttoned up today. I cranked it for a while with the Cam and Crank sensors unplugged to build oil pressure. Once I saw the needle move a little I knew I had some oil flowing.



It smokes a little just sitting there idling, and even more while driving. I figured it would because I found some coked up oil in the exhaust ports of a couple cylinders. I thought about putting valve stem seals in it but decided against it. My plan is to pick up a set of second gen TT heads and rework them.

It has a bit of a misfire, it's pretty bad actually. I thought maybe I left something unplugged, but nothing found from what I can see. I think it might be the coils, I used the ones that came on the engine since they looked cleaner, maybe it has a bad one.

Now I need to get the interior put back together and load cleaned up so I can get it loaded on the trailer for the trip to PA tomorrow!

[futurevr4man]

You are one ballsy son-of-a-gun taking it to NG so fast!

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

sounds pretty good, cranks for a while but idles smooth. I take that back if that is the very first start.

[Uniuno]

Haha VR4Man, if it ran better I'd drive it there, but I think my ARC is wired wrong. Well, it's wired to the instructions but I was told the yellow wire should go somewhere besides where it says in the instructions.

That was indeed the very first start! I'm going to have some bugs to work out of it while at NG for sure.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

IIRC the yellow wire goes to the TPS? Matt has posted about this on the other site.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

ARC2 Install, Pin 67 VS Pin 62 for Yellow Cable (non OBDII 91-93) - Page 2 - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

[CoopKill]

Nice! Throaty sounding bastard it is!

[Uniuno]

Thanks guys! I wired the yellow wire to 12v and it made it run 50% better.

I ended up talking to Greg here at NG and he advised me to remove the arc for a more factory drivable car. I happened to bring my stock maf and wiring information/tools with and had it done in no time. Of course with 680cc injectors I couldn't drive the car. I did start it to back it up a little (gotta love parking lot mods) and it was idling at 10:1! The next day Greg spent some time digging into the tune. He scaled the injectors and we tried dialing in the afrs, it continued to run rough even after all that. I figured it wasn't the tune and with the help and encouragement of Alex we dug in to find the problem. I pulled the front three injector connectors off and each one made it run worse. Couldn't as easily do the rear bank so I had Alex pull spark plug wires one at a time. We found one that didn't make a difference. It was actually misfiring, I couldn't believe it was running as smooth as it was. Greg mentioned that it didn't make sense why the amount of air and fuel going in and the resultant afrs didn't line up, that was a big clue.

We found the root of the problem in the adapter harness I made when I did my tt conversion for years ago. One of the resistors that I had wired in for the injectors had it's wire break off flush at the edge of it. I attempted to solder the wire back to it but there just wasn't enough left to make it happen. I'll order a new resistor and some spares when I return from ng.

It's never just a tune.

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[Uniuno]

So I ordered the resistor that I needed and a bunch more at the same time so I'll have them if something else fails again. I installed it and started the car, seemed to run better, but still not great. I reflashed the ECU to re-enable some of the DTCs. Went for a test drive and checked codes with the LCDBC, It said "injector fault". I ended up switching back from the 680s to the 360s, reflashed the ECU again to rescale and set latencies. Started it up and it runs perfect now.

I went for a couple drives and did some logging. I wasn't getting any knock so I turned up the boost to what I figure is a reasonable level. I'm running 9.5 psi, and on 9bs that lasts til about 3500 and then begins to taper off. I've had some issues with my boost controller, but I think it's working better now. It was tapering off to 0psi by 4500 rpm, now it will hold about 5psi from 4500 and up.

I was logging through the ECU, but I need to get the setup for logging through the LCDBC so I can log wideband and boost.

A local 3S guy has a lead on some 13t HL wheel turbos and thinks he has a set of 2nd gen TT heads back at his parent's house. I think I'll pull the engine out over the winter to put those heads and turbos on them if I can get them as well as address a few other cleanup issues. For now though I will enjoy just being able to drive the car, I haven't been able to do that for a few years now.

[Unlogic]

Logging through the LCDBC works really. I really like the fact that you can keep an eye on the values in real time on the display without having to stop and dig through the logs.