If I had thought about it, I would have warned you on the rear main seal. I have a pic of it somewhere...
74 on left, 72 on right. I didn't know about the water pump though... I used all 72 stuff on mine
If I had thought about it, I would have warned you on the rear main seal. I have a pic of it somewhere...
74 on left, 72 on right. I didn't know about the water pump though... I used all 72 stuff on mine
rise and rise again until lambs become lions

Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
Thanks VR4Man!
Gump, I would have drilled the pan but the wall rolls up right under the bolt hole. Drilling and tapping might be an option, but I don't know if it's worth it. If anything I'll hunt down a 72 TT rear main seal housing for next time.
So after getting the pan on and sealed up I realized I couldn't turn the engine over anymore. The crank was hitting the pan in three places.
One on the top of the lip on the back side of the engine
The other two spots are above the t-case
After taking out some frustration over the whole deal with a hammer and several test fits later they finally cleared.
I am usually a little better researched when doing this type of thing. The TT and AWD conversions went much smoother than this.
that's a PITA. at least you figured it out quickly!
(USER WAS BANNED FOR THIS POST)
-jeff
1992 SVX LS-L
1996 3000GT FWD-TT
2005 XC90 T6 AWD
i collect parts.
6g74 block : 6g74 crankshaft (for sale!) : 6g75 crankshaft : 6g74/75 forged H-beam rods : 6g75 MIVEC heads : 2x 20G TD05 turbos
DrWeldin Wastegate upgrades : DrWeldin brushed sparkplug cover : Pampena solid rear diff bushings : STM brainded stainless clutch line : GZP remote clutch bleeder : Maximal Performance? T-case bracket : Seattle91VR4 poly motor mounts : front solid motor sound : 98SL ECU w/ Chrome & BlackStealth adapter harness : 3SX O2 simulators : TLE Groundwire kit
Krank Vents (original) : 3.0" GM MAF : 3.75" GM MAF w/ adapter harness : MAFT 1.x : NinjaPerformance remote IAC block : BlackStealth LCD Boost Controller : NinjaPerformance Boost Controller : Dejon split y-pipe : Dejon pre-turbo intake pipes w/ K&N filters : K&N FIPK kit : DSM SMICs : Tim/*GT Custom TD05 SMICs BIGGER THAN YOURS : random tech high-flow cat : M2 exhaust
Jackhammer Dual pump fuel hangar : 2x Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pumps : SX -10AN fuel filter : 450cc DSM blacktop injectors : 880cc delphi injectors : Stealthlabel injector quick disconnect clips : custom stainless steel breaded PTFE dual feed fuel setup : Fuelab FPR : Skillard underbody fuel channel
96 Stealth spoiler (original) : 2x Cianci 52mm DS B-pillar gauge pods w/ 1x matching PS blank B-pillar (different manufacturers) : Billet grill : random eBay? strut bar
It's getting down to the wire to be ready for NG and I just got the engine dropped in last night. I wouldn't be worried about it but I have to rely on an exhaust shop to do the downpipe. If a vendor sold one for 6G74 conversions I would have just bought one and sold the one I have (Pssst, you! hint hint)
Anyway, there were a couple more things that needed modified before it would bolt in.
I quickly measured the rear engine mount boss on the 72
Then compared it to the 74, you can see the gap at the end of the stick. This is actually deceiving, I had to grind away much more than just that little bit. The top mount bolt's boss is actually where it needs to be (no grinding required) and if you hold the mount up to it you'll see an acute angled gap. That's pretty much what I used for reference. You can see a gap now at the other end.
Judging by the aforementioned acute gap I actually needed to grind a little more, but the measurement taken from the mounts in the car and the brackets on the engine were within and 1/8" of the 26.5 they needed to be. It dropped in no problem, but the support bracket to the rear of the trans doesn't quite line up, so I'll be revisiting this next time it comes out.
I had to make an adjustment to the water line to the turbo, it was too tight for me to trust the hose not to kink so I added a 45 degree dude in there.
The engine to trans plate thing (technical term) needed some clearance to for the rear main seal housing. 45 seconds with the cut off wheel took care of it.
I spent a little bit of time cleaning up the engine bay and hitting the subframe with some fresh paint.
I dropped the engine without the trans because it's a pain trying to get the trans to go onto an engine swinging from a hoist.
Turns out to be a tight fit with the hood
Then used the hoist to pick the trans up and a jack on the floor to level it as I slide it onto the engine ever so easily.
I got the transmission, t-case, axles in, and hubs put back together tonight. I also messed around with the catback, unfortunately I removed and/or broke (and lost) the mount by the gas tank on the passenger side so I'll have to get one from Mitoska.
The car is back on it's wheels and I'm going to take it to the exhaust shop after work tomorrow. They work from noon to midnightish so it would be awesome if they got it done tomorrow night. I'm hoping they work Saturdays if not. Otherwise I'll be finishing it up on Monday and taking it to PA on Tuesday.
Hot digity!
Help them, for they know not that which they do not know!
CoopKill's Mistress Makeover Thread!
"Punk, Nutswinging, Small Time, Asshat, Monkey, Jerkoff, Loser that rides on other peoples accomplishments!" ..
Super excited to do a ride along.
Quick update before bed.
The guy that owns the exhaust shop was nice enough to work on a Sunday, he was extra nice enough to let me help. He usually does GTR/Corvette exhausts and turbo set ups, but of course he'll make an exception to work on my 3000 and take my money.
While he had the down pipe on the bench doing the finish welding I was clearancing the subframe. I also hung the IPS catback while it was on the hoist, I forgot to take pictures, I'll get some tomorrow.
We ended up just adding this spacer and with the clearance made above the downpipe fit great. He wasn't very happy with the aesthetics of these welds, the pipe was very oil/grease contaminated didn't make for pretty welds. I'm just glad it's functional and done.
I towed the car back home and got all the fluids filled, the wire extended for my oil temp sending unit, and all of the accessories bolted up and the belts on.
I moved over to this side and got the slave cylinder reinstalled and then just decided to call it a night.
Going to hit the DMV in the AM to get the tags switched back over to it and get back to work on it. I hope to have it running by the afternoon sometime. I still need to gather things and pack for NG!

cooool
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