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Thread: My 2014 Refresh/ 6G74TT conversion

  1. #11
    At least my jackstands are reliable Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) Uniuno's Avatar
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    So I got delivery notice that the engine will be here Tuesday! In the meantime I need to get my garage cleaned up and ready for the engine swap.

    Also, Thanks to Bill I have a set of GZP cam gears on the way. You rock!

    95 Base 3k: 6G74/TT/AWD conversion

  2. #12
    At least my jackstands are reliable Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) Uniuno's Avatar
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    The eagle has landed.



    Exactly two weeks until I drive to PA for NG.. Plenty of time, who wants to grab a beer?

  3. #13
    At least my jackstands are reliable Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) Uniuno's Avatar
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    Inspection

    First, I gotta say, I am really pleased with the appearance of this engine. Everything is super clean. The only damage that I've found is on the upper timing covers.

    Here it is, unwrapped, still in the truck.



    All pulleys turned freely, with no bearing noise when turned by hand. I replaced mine within the last 5 years and with as little as I drive it they are still fine, but it's nice to have spares.


    Upper timing cover damage



    3500 Woo!



    Fuel rail cover:



    Engine code from compression video:



    Super clean wiring harness



    Goofy mounting place for the PTU



    Light rust on the crank snout. Also RTV for the rear main seal housing? Somebody's been here before, that seal is supposed to be dry.



    AC compressor that is much cleaner than the one in my car



    Alternator



    goofy dual TPS throttle-body linkage



    On the stand.





    More to follow.

  4. #14
    At least my jackstands are reliable Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) Uniuno's Avatar
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    Thermostat Housing Modification

    Because I'm running turbos I have to modify the thermostat housing to supply them with coolant. Since the 6G74 heads are further apart you can't just swap the 6g72 TT housing over.

    I started by taking some intake pipes out so I could see the stock housing and where the lines are. I wanted to make sure I plumbed them in the correct places so I didn't have two feeds going to a turbo

    I forgot to take a "before" picture, so this is as good as it gets without digging for and older one.


    I used a 7/16 drill bit with a 1/4-18 NPT tap



    Hole drilled now to tap.



    The tap bottomed out on the level below. Since the tap is tapered I couldn't just stop there.



    So I bought another tap and cut the end off it. These are the fittings I'm going to use.



    The cut tap did the trick, got a couple nice threads.







    I'm going to be using that bigger plug for my aftermarket gauge setup. The stock one wasn't being used anymore so that hole got re-purposed as a turbo feed.

    (1/8 NPT thread)



    Final product, with Teflon tape.



    The last turbo feed/return is on the fill neck itself from the 6G72 engine and will transfer over.

  5. #15
    Now with more poop-smear Not Verified Feedback Score 8 (100%) IPD's Avatar
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    subbed.

  6. #16
    YOUUSSS TRROOOLLLIN supporter Feedback Score 0 sketch's Avatar
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    I like what you did here with the left most coolant barb:


    you won't need to trim the front head like you would with a normally converted housing:

    (3sx housing pictured above)

    are you concerned about flow here at all with it being in the 1/8" sensor housing OR the hard right angle? also, I believe it is BSP, if you're concerned about the threading at all or possible leaks down the road
    (USER WAS BANNED FOR THIS POST)



    -jeff

    1992 SVX LS-L
    1996 3000GT FWD-TT
    2005 XC90 T6 AWD

    i collect parts.

    6g74 block : 6g74 crankshaft (for sale!) : 6g75 crankshaft : 6g74/75 forged H-beam rods : 6g75 MIVEC heads : 2x 20G TD05 turbos

    DrWeldin Wastegate upgrades : DrWeldin brushed sparkplug cover : Pampena solid rear diff bushings : STM brainded stainless clutch line : GZP remote clutch bleeder : Maximal Performance? T-case bracket : Seattle91VR4 poly motor mounts : front solid motor sound : 98SL ECU w/ Chrome & BlackStealth adapter harness : 3SX O2 simulators : TLE Groundwire kit

    Krank Vents (original) : 3.0" GM MAF : 3.75" GM MAF w/ adapter harness : MAFT 1.x : NinjaPerformance remote IAC block : BlackStealth LCD Boost Controller : NinjaPerformance Boost Controller : Dejon split y-pipe : Dejon pre-turbo intake pipes w/ K&N filters : K&N FIPK kit : DSM SMICs : Tim/*GT Custom TD05 SMICs BIGGER THAN YOURS : random tech high-flow cat : M2 exhaust

    Jackhammer Dual pump fuel hangar : 2x Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pumps : SX -10AN fuel filter : 450cc DSM blacktop injectors : 880cc delphi injectors : Stealthlabel injector quick disconnect clips : custom stainless steel breaded PTFE dual feed fuel setup : Fuelab FPR : Skillard underbody fuel channel

    96 Stealth spoiler (original) : 2x Cianci 52mm DS B-pillar gauge pods w/ 1x matching PS blank B-pillar (different manufacturers) : Billet grill : random eBay? strut bar

  7. #17
    At least my jackstands are reliable Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) Uniuno's Avatar
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    I thought it would have been BSP too, I ran a 1/8-27 NPT tap in it and it went in without much resistance and the threads looked great afterwards. I was able to get the fitting quite tight and then used teflon tape. I really don't think leaks will be an issue but of course I'll keep an eye on it.

    I was more concerned with drilling and tapping the end of the housing on a casting line so near to the flange and the back side of that sensor hole. It ended up being the lesser of two evils. I guess the other route would have been to use a smaller tap to tap in just the barb fitting that I have off the 90* fitting.

    These are great points to bring up, thanks for asking!

  8. #18
    YOUUSSS TRROOOLLLIN supporter Feedback Score 0 sketch's Avatar
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    there's only a 1 thread/inch (TPI) difference between NPT and BSP at the 1/8" size - 27 NTP TPI vs 28 BSP TPI (and a negligible thread angle/pitch difference, IIRC). The first few threads will go in easily before you run into any trouble.

    that being said, I know people have shoved in 1/8" NPT water temp sensors for aftermarket gauges into that spot without running into any trouble re: leaks anything as they get it tight enough (with teflon tape, as you used). I just bring up the point as it's under pressure, and I don't know if there will be any difference with you using that spot as a pass through vs. a blocked spot is all.

    regardless, love your work here with this!

  9. #19
    At least my jackstands are reliable Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) Uniuno's Avatar
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    That makes sense why it didn't fight me much, thanks for the information!


    Also, Thank you Alan for the title change.

  10. #20
    VR-3747 :D Not Verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) futurevr4man's Avatar
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    Just to be on the safe side I am asking this:

    Does your water neck face the correct direction? It looks like it does (I believe they face the direction that the two bolts are on, as opposed to the one on the other side... like a triangle pattern) but there were some 74's that came with water necks facing the other direction. Rather you think ahead on this, ya know?
    rise and rise again until lambs become lions

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