More like the perfect amp, I found said amp well two of them. That will give me 150 watts rms x 5 and 1000 watts rms x 1
More like the perfect amp, I found said amp well two of them. That will give me 150 watts rms x 5 and 1000 watts rms x 1
They do need to match as well as match my sound processor.
Arc audio PS8
I am waiting for Arc Audio to release these, eight of the channels will be range, the two sub channels will each dive a pair of 8's (so four total)
These are all OLD updates.. so don't mind some of the wording
Ugh.. Im so excited..
Because I don't have any build updates, heres something i just took on the way to dinner. Not much, buttfuck it...
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Just some SMALL updates..
I got the VM1 a few weeks ago, and tested it out for a first time today. Not only is it pure sex, theres seemingly NO lag. It makes my Stinger look like it pauses lol
Lvl 4s are out too for now.. along with the box.
For those of you who don't know, my Ampere sold for around what I wanted.. so Im about to shoot some money to Populus for amps, and buy some fiberglassing shit.
Im insanely busy for finals.. But I hope to find some time tomorrow to start measuring for a new box and look at new potential amp layouts.
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While the subs were out, i figured Id overlook everything on them.. voice coil resistance, actual coil, spider joints, surround for cracks, cone for tears.. etc.
First, resistance of the leads themselves..
So, the coils all read between 1 and 1.1 ohms.. lookin good :good:
Everything else looked to be on point too.
The weather was BEAUTIFUL today, so I did a TON of measuring.
I have some friendly advice for you, don't try to make sense of it.. because you'll get a migraine hahah..
So basically what it says is that I can get 3.9 cubes after wood displacement (all double baffled), but before sub and port. I could fit a pair of 12s.. or hmm.. get another 10 and wire them to have a final load of .66 ohm. eepwall: We'll see...*
This really makes me think of how not glassing held me back. Ill take a pic of my "trunk"/tire well, as that'll show what I mean best.. but it insanely hindered how much space I could obtain.
Last edited by hdorre; 06-09-2014 at 08:16 AM.
Ok.. more little updates..
Last night, I hit up Kevin.. and I picked up 20ft of SHCA 1/0, along with 5 set screw fuse holders and a few 300A fuses. He sent me a few ninja pics of what CNF coming out with.. and I can't lie.. they look sick
I did some measuring this morning for speaker clearance. My goal is to NOT cut any metal in the door, as the part Id have to cut is close to the part that holds my window motor and regulator. Id rather not weaken that part of my door.
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I don't want my box jumping around and beating up my hatch.. So heres my little solution..
I already started working on this one.. but my car has plastic bins in the hatch from the factory, which are screwed down into plastic adapters.
I dont trust these adapters to hold down the weight of the box, amps, and subs, so I removed them. The first one was a bitch because I didnt have a plan. Once I got one done, I was set. Heres my method of madness lol
Well.. it worked :shrug: So, fuck it..
These holes are accessible from under the car.. if your arm is 3 ft long hahah.. but I did see daylight at the bottom. As a result, I need to add the bolts from the top.
I could use small bolts, but I don't need shit snapping.
I knew it wouldnt fit, so lets take out one of my best friends..
Much better.
Now, I need to get the proper bolts, bigger washers, and nuts. The washer is what'll make the most contact area with the metal of the car.
The layout will be: Bolt --> Washer --> Cars Metal --> Washer --> Nut --> Washer --> Box --> Washer --> Nut
Got washers? LOL
Anyway, heres the idea.. The first hole was my test dummy, so it wasnt the best.. But I still have 5 more, which will be spot in. I formulated a better plan.
Im going to get a wider top washer.
This is just barely hand tightened, but you get the idea..
Make believe my fingers are the false floor.. This is sorta what it'll look like.. I fucked up a little.. One of the washers that on TOP of my fingers will be UNDER my fingers when all said and done.
[img]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i190/hdorre95/3000GTv2/7061AEC2-882D-40C1-86A4-70EC8CD51289_zpsh8159a8q.jpg]
So.. A few packages came in from Kyle, Kevin, Cody, and online stores..
First, black & blue 4awg OFC; along with black, blue, and red 16awg primary wire. Cody hooked me the fuck up.. Thats all Im gonna say.. Thanks!!
Next up, some 8awg OFC speaker wire from Kyle and Bryan. I couldn't have gotten a better deal. Thanks to you two, along with Laura for shipping it out.
I picked up some 1/0 OFC and set screw fuse holders from Kevin. Once again, killer deal lol
What really surprised me about this wire is how flexible it was.. WARM. Not hot, warm..
I also got a new passenger window regulator. My old one was starting to go, and the bass throwing the window back and forth didnt help. Remember, I have frameless windows.
Before I replaced the regulator, I threw the batteries on the charger. Its been like 3 weeks :shrug:
The other package that came in was vinyl samples. There aren't many 3000GTs/Stealths/GTOs running out there.. So we need to take care of the ones that are still alive. Ill be vinyl wrapping the doors and pillars after I glass them.*
I narrowed it down to 2..
What do you guys think? Top or bottom?
A little after I finished vacuuming my car and replacing the regulator.. The batt charger was complete and in "float" mode"
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