Car runs, but now......

[GRSHOPR]

OK, so for those that haven't read the other entire 20 page thread, here's a low down, and what the current problems are.

I just finished swapping in a 91 JDM TT motor, ECU, and harness into a 94 base. There have been a lot of issues, but now it's running, if rough. Right now, the biggest issue is the radiator.

I followed the instructions at the link below, but the fan still won't turn on for anything. At the relays for the fans, there is power to pins 1 and 5, and possibly 3 (it varies for some reason?). If the engine gets warm enough, the driver's side fan will kick on to cool the motor, but when I turn on the AC, it doesn't turn on. Anyone got any ideas on this one? I'd wire a separate relay into this thing and call it done, if I could somehow slave it to the temp, so the fans would turn on like they're supposed to, but I'm not sure how that'd work. Thanks for looking!

http://www.3si.org/forum/f53/1g-harness-2g-body-274771/

[Austin@STM]

Have you hooked up power to the fan to know that its even good?

[GRSHOPR]

It is indeed. At one point I was able to ground pin 5 and have it run. And before I put it in, I tested both fans.

[colt45 gto]

JDM radiator? is the rad in good shape?

i mean sometimes those rads clog in the bottom rail where the senders are, they will not find heat if they are covered in sludge

[GRSHOPR]

No, it's a usdm, but I flushed it before I put it in. The reason it makes me think that it isn't the sensors is that sometimes, pin 3 does and does not have voltage. I haven't actually tested to see if this is related to the engine temp yet, but it does make sense. Unless I'm completely backwards on how that circuit functions.

[elyria_boy]

For 20 bucks at any parts store you could get an adjustable high temp regulator. I converted an air cooled engine to liquid cooled and used one to turn the electric water pump when it gets to a certain temp. They are for fans tho. Put sensor inline, turn screw to have it turn on between 150 and 210 degrees. Simple easy fix.

[GRSHOPR]

Sounds like a winner, thanks elyria.

OK, so I'm bringing everything back to this thread. I've compiled a list of the symptoms of the car that need to be tuned, and if I have theories or steps I'm going to take on each one, I'll list them accordingly. If there are no ideas, I could use yours, guys, since I'm lost. I've never tuned my own car before.

-car can't build any real boost: doing a pressure check this weekend, as well as installing the new injector insulators (upper and lower), as they seem to be part of the issue
-when the car is warm, in 2nd, 3rd and 4th, when trying to give the throttle some go, at 3000-3500 RPM, the motor falls flat on its face
-the TB plate sticks
-when driving, taking my foot off the throttle, and leaving the car in gear, the car back/mis fires. Also noticed that when it fires out the back end, the WB is reading between 10-11. Seems to be connected
-idles high: ground and adjust idle according to manual
-BOV is constantly going off whenever I accelerate. It's an open atmosphere, and since I've never had an open atmo one before, not sure entirely how it should sound, but I definitely hearing a whirring noise from that area when accelerating.

[colt45 gto]

it all sounds like a boost leak, the whole thing is connected.except the sticky butterfly, does it stick shut or open?

[Hans@GZP]

What BOV are you running?

[GRSHOPR]

It sticks shut. And it's an apexi open air bov. The guy claimed he didn't know the brand and said it was a recirculating.

More issues to add to the list above:

-It feels like when I shift, the exhaust hits the floor of the car. Time to get solid motor mounts?
-When I accelerate, my car sounds like a car with a broken exhaust. Like someone blowing a raspberry. When I stop accelerating, and just cruise, it has a deep mean sound. Thoughts on the farting noise? I have no cat, if that helps.