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Thread: OEM Mudflaps

  1. 04-13-2014, 09:27 PM #21
    stealthee
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpartinvr4 View Post
    What it comes down to for me is whether or not to build the hardware into the flap.

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    I would if I were you. If the mold is set up right you can place the hardware in its location. Pour/squirt the mixture into the mold and let it set. Once it is set the hardware is already in place and ready to go.

    Quote Originally Posted by Z16A View Post
    ABS all the way, fiberglass will break way too fast. Just my 2 cents! Maybe polyutherane would be awwsum!!
    Fiberglass with definitely break. I don't think ABS is the way to go either. It is flexible, but still not the answer. I would go poly. You just need to play with it to find the proper durometer to use.

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  2. 04-13-2014, 09:31 PM #22
    dpartinvr4
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    The stuff i have is called task 15, ill see how it holds up, just waiting for Chris Anderson to send the final piece I'm missing

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  3. 04-14-2014, 02:57 AM #23
    IPD
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    I agree on polyurethane. I also think that putting hardware IN the mold is a bad idea. Too easy to strip screws, break stuff, rust out, etc. Just leave it out. About the only thing that MIGHT be worth putting IN the mold is the drilled metal strips. If you're using bolts with fender washers anyways, it won't really impact things much. And it might help add stiffness.
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  4. 04-14-2014, 08:29 PM #24
    shadowcrawler13
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    All this talk is getting me excited for em!
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  5. 04-15-2014, 11:40 PM #25
    Nytron
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    Do want. In.
    1993 Pearl White 3000GT VR-4
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  7. 04-15-2014, 11:44 PM #26
    stealthee
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    Quote Originally Posted by IPD View Post
    I agree on polyurethane. I also think that putting hardware IN the mold is a bad idea. Too easy to strip screws, break stuff, rust out, etc. Just leave it out. About the only thing that MIGHT be worth putting IN the mold is the drilled metal strips. If you're using bolts with fender washers anyways, it won't really impact things much. And it might help add stiffness.
    I believe the hardware going in the mold would be like bushings for the holes.
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  8. 04-16-2014, 12:11 AM #27
    ReddVR4
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    Do want some of those mudflaps!

    1991 Monza Red VR4- Weekend ride: Tanabe Super Medallion Hyper exhaust, 0.8 bar WGs, Turbosmart MBC (@1 bar), 3SX turbo pre-pipes, Straight pipe, Greddy Type RS BOV, Godspeed FMIC w/ PPE pipes, Stillin DP, HKS duel filters, RPS stage 2 clutch, 3sx SS clutch line, Custom oil catch can w/ braided lines, Krank vents, Ohhnoo's fuel loop, HW fuel pump, PC'd 2G brake swap w/3sx SS lines, Hawk pads, and Stop Tech rotors; Various deletes, PC'd/polished engine stuff, Koyo rad, Greddy coolant cap, DBest custom oil cap, Pit Road M front strut bar, PRM plug cover, PRM tailights, PRM CF Falcon hood and PRM shift knob, Morgan Motorsports splitter, 19x8.5 +27/19x9.5 +24 Volk GT-Cs wrapped Nitto NT555s, 99' bumper conversion, 99' sail panels, 2G side skirts, Retrofitted 5G Celica mirrors, Retro Spec side splitters, RS rain guards, and RS rear window visor, factory GTO light up visors, Custom fit Top Secret style diffuser for 350z, Robo mod w/halos, 3G rear garnish, Momo steering wheel, Tein Street Flex coilovers, 3SX control arms, Apexi turbo timer, Apexi mechanical boost gauge, Zoom Engineering Penta rear view mirror, Veilside navigators foot rest, Pioneer HU
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  9. 04-16-2014, 02:59 AM #28
    IPD
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    Quote Originally Posted by stealthee View Post
    I believe the hardware going in the mold would be like bushings for the holes.
    That would work, although the net effect is like putting the retaining strips in the mold, so that's probably the easiest method.
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  10. 04-17-2014, 12:49 AM #29
    shadowcrawler13
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    Seriously though, if somebody has a used set to sell I'm interested.
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  11. 04-28-2014, 01:43 PM #30
    Z16A
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    I has paypal ready!!!
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