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Thread: *** New Product Release Sale! STM ABS Delete Kits $225 Shipped ***

  1. #111
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    this is a great kit, harest part is just cutting the old crap out.

    I had to bleed my brakes a couple times, but after that I have a rock hard pedal, harder than before.

    Parting 6 speed
    Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace

  2. #112
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    Hey was going to dive into this this weekend but it was getting late and I have never traced the brake lines. I found the ABS valve but I was wondering if anyone has a link or diagram picture somewhere they could either PM me or post in the thread.

    Also, my car has 160k on it. Would it be a good idea to replace the master cylinder on it? or do these hold up quite well?

  3. #113
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    I agree, could someone draw up a MS paint sketch installation instruction?
    Maddog Performance Engineering

  4. #114
    See these hard lines going around the strut tower/fender area? Take them all out.
    IMG_0387.jpg

    The proportioning valve is bolted (one bolt) to the center of the firewall. This is not a great pic, but that rusted block right in the center background with a couple of hard lines going into it and some more running under it is the prop valve.
    IMG_0389.jpg

    The rear brake lines are not replaced with the ABS delete kit. Don't cut 'em, you need to keep 'em. The rear lines are the ones that go into the top holes of the prop valve. From there they run across to the passenger side and then back under the car.

    Be careful, the hard line from the clutch master to slave runs parallel to the brake lines in places. Don't cut or remove the clutch line by mistake!

    Some of the lines aren't too bad to get out, others, well, let's just say I never would have finished the job without my Dremel and a cutting wheel.

  5. #115
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    sharp pair of wire cutters works wonders for those old pesky lines

  6. #116
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    Here's for anyone wanting to know how to run the lines, it's very simple, I actually did it wrong the first time I threw the kit in. But it just doesn't look right if you do it wrong as I found out. A small walk through with Austin, and a couple of his photos told all.

    I have the two top outlets on the valve going to the front calipers as the stock lines for my rears fit into their snaps and led straight to that spot. As you can see the bottom passengers side port goes to the 90* and banjo bolt like to the side of the master cylinder. The drivers side bottom port on the valve goes to the strait to 90* line, then to the top of the master cylinder.


    I'm going to look into weather or not the top and middle ports have any variances in supplied pressure.
    Last edited by J_Parker; 06-02-2011 at 12:08 AM.
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