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  1. #1
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    Coil-On-Plug

    I feel that this is worth further discussion with specific relevance. Having decided to keep the 93 VR-4 on-board and at least finish what I started before making a decision to sell/keep it, I became the prototype car for a 300M COP system last year from a vendor turned dud that some of you might recall from the other site. I think perhaps the first one to buy after I did received his, but I never did hear his results; I digress...

    Having installed on a stock boost BPU car and starting the car after messing with plug gap, the car indeed idled well enough without a CDI. That's all good and great for scratching the surface, but after the resurrection and tune my car will be around the 450-500AWHP mark tuned. I'd really like to see what capabilities this system can offer, be that through messing with some form of CDI (my car is a simple NEO/LS1 MAS with V2 Translator setup) or ultimately resorting to a Flash ECU and having the ability to fine tune for optimal results. It is an interesting product that I'd like to find a way to pick the weeds away from and ultimately offer up to an already-established vendor to perhaps reduplicate the final product, but more importantly I am curious what your thoughts are? While I am certainly not keen on investing anymore time or money into this car on top of the others if I don't have to, I'd like to confirm or deny this well-hashed (in theory) topic with some firm conclusion. I'm now in the Northeastern Maryland area, working in Wilmington Delaware. If you are local, by all means I'd be happy to have a meet or two outside of the NG this year.

    Apologies in advance if this has been tested weighed and measured already, I have certainly overlooked it if so.
    1993 3000GT VR-4 Purchased 1/20/12
    1990 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo Purchased 6/15/13
    2003 SVT Cobra Terminator Purchased 10/01/2013 - 1 of 23 Sonic Blue / Parchment Suede Coupes

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    Unless you can adjust the dwell time they would almost positively be a downgrade from a new OEM coilpack & new/good plug wires.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mb3000 View Post
    Unless you can adjust the dwell time they would almost positively be a downgrade from a new OEM coilpack & new/good plug wires.
    I don't disagree with that. While I think the product I received deserves merit, a "one size fits all" approach without polishing isn't going to get it done. Again, whether-or-not this amounts to something great or simply proves to finally put this one to bed I'd like to see it through. It isn't get left as-is, your statement is the thesis of this thread.

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    Take a look at my thread on 3si and you will see why I killed my project...without some type of spark amplifier the setup is a downgrade.

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    The DSM guys (which use the same stock coils, just only 2) have been attempting to use 300M, Stratus, and Intrepid COP setups for years. The end result is always the same: A downgrade without a spark amplifier or CDI controller set to sequential fire rather than waste-spark. The coils simply aren't as strong Mitsu coils, and the amount of power lost through a foot or so of plug wire is negligible. If you'd like, I could try to find the massive thread on the subject which goes into details much higher than my pay grade. lol

    I've personally tried running Intrepid coils and had to pull my gaps in to 50% of stock (.017) just to hold a spark at high boost/rpm. With stock coils and NGK wires I never had to run less than .020 gaps even at 40psi on Ethanol.

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    Im pretty sure im the only other person who received the setup from the same guy. I have had mine on and running for the entire time, over a year now IIRC, without issues. I do have a chrome ECU and have adjusted a few minor things in the ignition section as well as hotwired the coils. I have the plugs gaped to .032" and I have seen as high as 21PSI at 4000RPMs without spark blowout or knock.

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    Quote Originally Posted by striker2 View Post
    Im pretty sure im the only other person who received the setup from the same guy. I have had mine on and running for the entire time, over a year now IIRC, without issues. I do have a chrome ECU and have adjusted a few minor things in the ignition section as well as hotwired the coils. I have the plugs gaped to .032" and I have seen as high as 21PSI at 4000RPMs without spark blowout or knock.
    It seems like it's something that you'd really need a Flash ECU to make any use of. If I didn't have roughly $200 tied into it, I wouldn't even mess with the idea at-all. Glad to hear your personal experience has gone well.

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    You may be better off with just the hot wire. If I have ignition problems the first thing I will do it hot wire the coils and the second thing will be a boost-a-spark setup with like 14V to the coils. From what I've read the stock setup provides 6 amps of current through the primary and I believe that can be increased to at least 8 amps with a BAS which will increase the spark power by at least 25-50%

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    My feeble mind always thought BAS would be great since you are increasing voltage but Matt M had issues and always suggest DLI over BAS (even when he couldn't get DLI and had BAS in stock.)
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

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    Thing you'd likely still need something like a C2DI or DLI to get sufficient energy. The C2DI has a capability to go from wasted spark to COP as I recall, but not sure how well those would work for the platform or if anyone has used them. Believe ideally they are supposed to be paired with an AEM standalone, but again, unsure.
    Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
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