19T + e85 too much for stock bottom?

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

I read the amazon advertisement you linked in. You should read the one from the manufacture, I posted it. At 35 degrees F ambient the viscosity of VR-1 20w-50 is over 1200cSt, which is equivalent to sucking jello thru a straw. At 70 degrees it's basically lifts as easily as trying to sip a milkshake with a coffee stirrer. I have two final words regarding that... Kinematic Viscosity. That oil offers nothing for protection until it reaches an operating temperature of 120+ degrees. It's for setups where you very rarely turn your engine off and where weather is always warm.

IT IS A DIFFERENT PRODUCT:

Valvoline.com > Products > Motor Oil > Racing Motor Oil > Valvoline® Specialty Racing Oil ("Not Street Legal")

NOTICED EVEN VALVOLINE HAS A PAGE FOR THE VR1 NON RACE ONLY:

Valvoline.com > Products > Motor Oil > Racing Motor Oil > VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)

WHEN YOU HAVE BUILT MORE ENGINES THAN PAMPENA MOTORSPORTS GET BACK TO ME.

[familyMAN]

You do realize excessive amounts of sulfur, phosphorous, ZDP, and so forth accelerate engine wear once they've reached the cumulative limit and they only afford protection in certain temperature windows? The reason why this particular oil is advertised "for racing use only" is because one using this blend of oil should expect their engine to be broken down more frequently due to the chemical impacts of the oil package and the metals in the rotating assembly. The protective package for this oil is for high heat. At a lower temperature it affords little to no protection. Valvoline specifies use in race applications which involve frequent engine disassembly for that reason. Unless you're driving around at wot all the time and plan on pulling your oil pan every 30K I wouldn't use it.

Valvoline VR20w-50 is because racecar oil.

For another thread...

Cool. So exactly how I drive my car....wide f'n open.....no cats, turbos almost maxed....sounds like the right oil for me. Thanks.

DR750 build at greater than 125hp per cylinder (crank), not because racecar??

Edit: I'll say again...it's offered in 10w30 as well.

[kywhitelightning]

and where the weather is always warm.

This would be my main criteria for running high viscosity oil. Well, that and a loose engine. Most people I see run higher viscosity to band aid the real problem, worn bearings/tired oil pump. Recommending that viscosity on a new engine would tell me its probably on the loose side of things on purpose. In Forrests case, I would go with the builder's recommendations. If an engine is set up at manufacturers specifications, use the oe recommended oil.

Jeff

[R/T93]

Who races their engine at 32 degrees, or 120 degrees? (Oil temp)

From the phone.

[CoopKill]

I think the point he was making was cold start, and oil protection, but it matters not when comparing apples to apples with the correct product.

[J. Fast]

IT IS A DIFFERENT PRODUCT:

Valvoline.com > Products > Motor Oil > Racing Motor Oil > Valvoline® Specialty Racing Oil ("Not Street Legal")

NOTICED EVEN VALVOLINE HAS A PAGE FOR THE VR1 NON RACE ONLY:

Valvoline.com > Products > Motor Oil > Racing Motor Oil > VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)

WHEN YOU HAVE BUILT MORE ENGINES THAN PAMPENA MOTORSPORTS GET BACK TO ME.

LOL, the oil package for the non-race 20w-50 oil you linked actually has the same blended/additive package as the Non Street Legal. The only difference between the two is the viscosity is actually HIGHER than the NSL. The viscosity is 1400cSt on your average 35 degree morning. That's a good recipe to oil starve/wipe a bearing in a moderately cold climate. It's just doesn't appear to be a good cold start oil at any ambient temperature below 60 degrees. That's when we really need the protection.

This would be my main criteria for running high viscosity oil. Well, that and a loose engine. Most people I see run higher viscosity to band aid the real problem, worn bearings/tired oil pump. Recommending that viscosity on a new engine would tell me its probably on the loose side of things on purpose. In Forrests case, I would go with the builder's recommendations. If an engine is set up at manufacturers specifications, use the oe recommended oil.

Jeff

I agree to a certain point. What you get in one place does not always net the same results somewhere else. Case and point, do you wake up every morning in GA with ambient temps in the 40's or above? Yes. In the Midwest is that always the case? No. Is your engine output at sea level the same in new Mexico? No. Just because Ray says "hey man I use that oil", doesn't make it the right choice for everyone. If I had 20w anything in my crankcase right now and turned my engine over I'd be really pissed. It's freezing outside. I'd be filtering metal.

Who races their engine at 32 degrees, or 120 degrees? (Oil temp)

From the phone.

Races their engine At 32 degrees? Nobody. But you have to turn it over right? A lot of people have been witness to the weather outside. It's not exactly warm. I believe last week 75% of America woke up to freezing temperatures.

Petrol Companies are required to show consumers what's in there. Apply some common sense, that's all we really have to do. Sometimes what works for others may not work so well for all, unfortunately many have discovered said notion on their own and we see... "

but [insert 3/S famous person name] said and did X. I did the same and look at this mess"

threads.

I think the point he was making was cold start, and oil protection, but it matters not when comparing apples to apples with the correct product.

That, and let's read some labels and apply some common sense too.

[Alex3000gt]

Please, just stop.

[CoopKill]

The two have more differences than viscosoty. Please go back and read the manufacturers site again. Open your mind, search for what you do not believe instead of searching for proof in what you already bwlieve.

Sent from the Man Cave!

*\( ^o^ )/*

[anyonebutme]

I've got some common sense for this thread.

I've used VR1 before back when they were giving away free cases of it for testing. I was having a hell of a time finding an oil I didn't shear into water in 1K miles. In the end I went back to Rotella T6 even though I was getting a case for like 6 bucks. Pretty sure even Nate witnessed how low my oil pressure would get after a track session. Ended up putting the rest of it I had left into my nice new transmission that is puking oil out and has all bad bearings in it after a year of racing.

BUT..........because racecar. Just because I drove it on the street doesn't make it a DD. For 70% of the big power guys, full-on racing oil is a valid choice. It's not like these guys are driving their car to work and to get groceries everyday, 30K miles for these guys is like 10 years. They are pulling the pan more often than that regardless of the oil they use, so threatening that they'd have to bearing an engine that probably won't live that long is a moot point. Even in my most active years I was putting on maybe 5K miles a year on my car max..........pulling the pan in 30K isn't scaring anyone here, I've pulled my engine more often than I changed it's oil a couple of years.

My advice is simple, find the best oil you can, use it, change it more often that you think you should. VR1 might work for you better then it worked for me, try it and find out.

[bboyalan]

Hm, interesting posts in such a short time frame lol. Chris pretty much answered Jeff's question regarding 50-weight for me; I also considered others' high HP [4G63T] Blackstone results with this particular M1. I used Castrol to break-in my motor 80mi/day to/from work and made the switch when I began pushing and tuning at 1600 miles.

FWIW, I live in SoCal, and our "winter" is not that cold with mostly nicer days outside. The coldest morning probably registered 53*F on my AEM water temperature gauge, and it was not until then that I made the effort to adjust my IPW based on temp for that cold start on ethanol.

Random bit: my passenger and I believe that the mystery challenger was a modified, de-badged IS-F. If so, then this was my second encounter with one. Yeahhhh... hah!