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Thread: Low Compression Results (Help Diagnose Please)

  1. #11
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    You said you didn't check the crank timing mark? The crank timing mark is just as important as the cam marks, so I would check it also. You said it idled and ran okay last time it was running, right? If that is the case, the engine should be okay. I would zero the timing, then re-check the compression. If the compression comes back to something reasonable, then the rings/valves/etc are not bent/broken. Quick, cheap way to check current status of engine internals without full disassembly.

    I have had more than a few cases of timing belts getting loose. Most recently, I had a freshly built motor act just like yours. Timing belt had come loose and slipped a tooth. After resetting timing marks and re-tensioning the belt, engine had great compression and ran fine. Just sayin'.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by stealthee View Post
    Its possible your tensioner collapsed and caused the issue.
    +1, sounds like a bad tensioner.

    Quote Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy View Post
    I bet she smells of old mustard and sawdust.
    Jeremy

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSpyderVR4 View Post
    I know if you start the car it should tighten up the belt, but I just don't like that much play.
    Oh and DO NOT start that car until you fix that belt/tensioner.

  4. #14
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    Put the crank to TDC, then look at your cam gears.

    And like everyone else is saying, reset timing and check compression.
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

  5. #15
    To reset the crank, I just need to remove the plastic shield, wheel, and balancer and I can crank it right? If I have to pull the motor mount, etc, I just don't want to do this in my apartment parking lot. I will fill a lot more confident doing this in my garage once i move in.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSpyderVR4 View Post
    To reset the crank, I just need to remove the plastic shield, wheel, and balancer and I can crank it right? If I have to pull the motor mount, etc, I just don't want to do this in my apartment parking lot. I will fill a lot more confident doing this in my garage once i move in.
    Pretty much, but You will most likely need a tensionor just to get it sort of safe to start. If you don't know how to set time or much about it then I don't recommend you doing it in a parking lot. If I had a dollar for every guy that screwed up their 3s timing I'd have a 3sec car.

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  8. #17
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    BTW if you mean "crank it" as in letting the starter turn the engine then NO. God stop! before you destroy poor engine.

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  10. #18
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    You are in TX, plenty of members in the state that can help you or point you to a good shop that can. That would be the direction I would suggest at this point.

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  12. #19
    By cranking no I was not referring to the starter. Im talking about turning the crank 1 tooth from TDC by hand so I can realign all the timing marks correctly. I know how to reset the timing have done it several times on other cars and pretty sure I did enough research on this car to be able to reset the timing on the VR4. But at this point in the game I should just wait to I move to the new house. I will probably just flatbed the car to the new house. Because Im redoing the 60k service. I know the previous owner redid the water pump, but i just want the peace of mind knowing it was done right. What I could use is help me start compiling a list of things I need for the rebuild.

    Pistons:
    Rings:
    Pins:
    Rods:
    Bearings:
    AC Delete (New Belt):
    ABS Delete:
    Timing Belt:
    Water Pump:
    Oil Pump (Maybe???)-
    Tensioner:
    Wires/Plugs (Good Spark Plug for 450-500WHP??):
    Gasekets:
    water meth kit:
    Head Lift Fix (Should I????)

    So Ill be taking suggestions on parts and where to get them. Im in the process of digging all around the online shops. But I do not have near as much time in this platform as you gentlemen.

    All the stuff I already have from page 1:

    Aftermarket Parts:
    Fuel Loop
    3SX Custom Fuel Kit
    Tanabe CBE
    Aftermarket Boost Gauge
    Light Weight Flywheel
    Spec Stg 1 Clutch
    99 Lifters
    DP
    EGR Delete
    Krank Vents
    LC-1 Standalone
    T-Case Bracket
    Solid Motor mounts (not installed)
    Cloned ECU
    482 EVO MAF
    Mishimoto Performance Radiator w/hoses
    550CC Lucas Injectors
    Walbro 40 E85 Fuel Pump w/hotwire (not installed)
    Dual Core FMIC
    Hallman MBC
    TB rebuilt by April
    S15 Billet Turbos (not installed)
    Last edited by BlackSpyderVR4; 01-05-2014 at 01:22 PM.

  13. #20
    your one hour south of Dynamic Racing in Alamagordo,NM . just take it there and be done with it. Worry free

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