Cleaning up the head questions/ slight port / polish

**Bloodlust182** · 12-13-2013, 05:10 PM

I am going to be working over my TT heads for my engine that will replace the N/a one in my car right now. Upon inspecting them I did a quick test of pouring water into the combustion chamber bowls and the intake valves on Cyl 1 leaked water out. I thought the valves were bent but I took them out ,cleaned them, cleaned the valve seats up, re-inserted the valves, and did the water test again. The result? they did not leak. Could carbon/debris have held the valve open enough for water to weep out?

Now as for porting/ polishing the heads I have read some very long threads on the other site and i have drawn some conclusions about porting/ polishing them. My main goal is to really just get rid of the casting lines/flaws and remove any rough edges that are in the intake side then open up the exhaust side slightly.

Here is my list of Do's and Dont's I have made so far. Correct me if I am mistaken in my ways.
1. Port match the intake gasket
2. Do not take much material off the "eyebrows" in the intake port.
3. Knife edge the intake/exhaust port divider
4. Remove the ridge that is above the valve seat.
5. pass over the intake with 40/60 grit and no higher to promote fuel atomization.
6. Polish the shit out of the exhaust ports.
7.smooth out casting lines on sides of ports.

I have all the time in the world and don't mind spending 40+ hours working on these heads. I don't want to hear any "just take it to a shop" answers.

**mb3000** · 12-13-2013, 06:37 PM

I used this kit:

Trick Flow® Deluxe Cartridge Roll Porting Kits TFS-90001 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Used up just about all of it. I would go ahead and lap the valves while you're at it. Since you said you have all the time in the world, than you've got exactly what you need.

**anyonebutme** · 12-13-2013, 07:04 PM

don't remove material from the port floor.

**sergechronos** · 12-14-2013, 03:07 PM

Goes without saying but: Go slow.

Better to take twice and remove less material at first than to go too far. If you have it all apart, you could port out the manifolds as well (although there's not a lot you can port on the front manifold before it will crack and need welding) and even the turbine housings (to remove the fire ring.) By my (admittedly rough) calculations, removing the fire ring adds about 15% more volume through there. Doing the turbine housings will use up a lot of cartridges though, so just bear that in mind.

As far as the heads, if you think that the valves might be at all bent, take them out and to a machine shop to be checked out, do VSS while it's apart (if of unknown age or high mileage.) Better to do it all now rather than have smoking shortly after install.

**Dsmhunter** · 12-15-2013, 10:29 PM

Do not knife edge the intake side. Just port match, and take the ridges off behind the valve seat. Only go about an inch into the runner, no further. Remove casting marks if you wish- this is also what I did.
For the exhaust, do the same, exept you can pretty much make the entire opening as smooth as you wish. I would go 140 grit for the exhaust side, check my thread I have some pics of the finished product if you want to see what they look like. I have heard otherwise, but I did knife edge the exhaust side, anything to smooth airflow and increase velocity on the exhaust is good. Go slow! I had about 20 hours into my heads

**Bloodlust182** · 12-15-2013, 10:44 PM

Thanks guys, I will keep your comments in mind when I am porting the heads.

**TurboSinceBirth** · 12-15-2013, 11:14 PM

I checked my DR Stage III heads. Both intake and exhaust side are knife edged. Ironically, the exhaust side isn't gasket matched but the intake side is. I would have thought you'd gasket match the exhaust side too.