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Thread: Quick Clutch Help

  1. #21
    Hitokiri Battousai verified
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    One thing I can tell you about the TZ - when it gets overheated, it will slip like nothing else. Had that happen at the track and I thought I had killed my clutch. Cooled down and it was perfectly fine again. I would check to make sure everything is engaging/disengaging well.

  2. #22
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    Thats what I figured was going on, it feels 100% perfect otherwise so I was guessing it was heat related.

    How exactly should I check those things? I have a day off tomorrow and a second hand if needed.

  3. #23
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    Highway driving does NOT break in a clutch. If you go on a 1000 mile cross country trip taking I70 the whole way you are not going to properly break in a clutch.

    All that being said, you need to check the clutch pedal adjustment.

    [06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM

  4. #24
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    Right. Recommended break in period is usually around 400-500, southbend says about 750. I waited 1000 because most of my commute (not all) is highway. I did alot of other driving including a no-highway route to work often as well.
    Double checking adjustment in a few.

    EDIT: did need some more adjustment, will see how it does.
    Last edited by x2percentmilk; 12-20-2010 at 02:20 PM.

  5. #25
    Hitokiri Battousai verified
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    updates? Hoping things are working better by now...

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    Fixed the issue until today. Clutch engagement point changed itself over the course of 40 minutes until I was locked out of gear. Fluid full, no leaks, cylinders fine. Went to adjust it on the side of the highway and the nut was still tight (so thats not the issue). Adjustment rod used to be loose enough to easily adjust by hand, but now needs lockjaws to move it at all. That is how my old master cylinder was as well, not sure why (when I replaced the master I couldnt even get the threaded bracket off the rod). Adjusted it and made it home.

    Master is new, slave is new.

  7. #27
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    I have a cheap $140 clutch/pressure plate in my car at the moment. If I get on the car hard and go WOT it will cause engagement issues. I have to adjust the clutch to get it back to where I can shift and its fine again until I would go WOT again.

  8. #28
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    Took the cap off the master and the adjustment rod spins more easily, i guess with it on and the fluid full youre fighting the vacuum. Adjusted again before work because im getting some slipping issues.
    Didnt fix anything, clutch slips in first at 3/4 throttle and in second if I punch it at mid rpms consistently. I don't know what to do really.

    Anyone want to buy an otherwise reliable sandstone first gen base?
    Last edited by x2percentmilk; 12-31-2010 at 08:59 PM.

  9. #29
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    When you had the flywheel resurfaced did they properly two step it? If it wasn't done properly it could totally cause slippage issues.

  10. #30
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    Yeah, when I brought it to the guy he goes "ah one of the pain in the ass ones" and knew to take the pins out and everything.
    Ive never had anything done by them but they build race engines so I figured he knew what he was doing.

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