Unsprung clutch discs

[Echo419]

how many of you run them and for those that have, have you ever broken the rivets on the spool? if so was it difficult?

reason I ask is so far I've broken 2 that were supposedly good for alot more power than I'm making. I'm thinking my 3rd clutch(different company) is going to do the same thing. it's starting to rattle very loudly like the TOB but sometimes I can feel it in the clutch pedal if I press it just right. it also goes away when I push in the pedal and sometimes if I pump it the rattle will stop. I'm thinking it is b/c the spool has worked itself backwords to a stuck position. pics of carnage below.

[Austin@STM]

1st thing to check is that all the bolts are on the tranny to the engine, and they are all tight. We had a customer that went through 4 or 5 clutches in less than a year, and couldnt figure out why. We asked him how many bolts were holding the tranny to the engine, and and he one was one short. The back bottom bolt wqas missing everytime, so when he was pushing in the clutch, he was actually pushing the tranny away from the engine causing stress on the input shaft/clutch disk causing it to break.

-Austin@STM

[Echo419]

1st thing to check is that all the bolts are on the tranny to the engine, and they are all tight. We had a customer that went through 4 or 5 clutches in less than a year, and couldnt figure out why. We asked him how many bolts were holding the tranny to the engine, and and he one was one short. The back bottom bolt wqas missing everytime, so when he was pushing in the clutch, he was actually pushing the tranny away from the engine causing stress on the input shaft/clutch disk causing it to break.

-Austin@STM

they are all there and torqued to spec.

[Austin@STM]

What type of clutch is it? It could just e a poorly designed clutch, other people may be having the same issue.

Also when you do pull the tranny out, check your input shaft for abnormal wear or twisting.

[Echo419]

What type of clutch is it? It could just e a poorly designed clutch, other people may be having the same issue.

Also when you do pull the tranny out, check your input shaft for abnormal wear or twisting.

they were from Competition Clutch. I went with them b/c they are local and all I needed was a disc. I got my current clutch from another local place called Truco. I went with them b/c my friend has one in his Tacoma XRunner that he beats the hell out of and it holds for him. on the last dics I didn't even get on it hard but a couple of times and I barley hit 14lbs of boost.
it still rattles on my new one. granted it could be the TOB(new) or my clutch fork but I can feel it in the pedal.

my input shaft appears to be in good condition and the trans itself on a whole looks pratically new.

[green-lantern]

I'm running spec stage 4+. No problems yet but I haven't got very many miles on it.

[Echo419]

I'm running spec stage 4+. No problems yet but I haven't got very many miles on it.

I had a USED RPS sprung 6 puck for about 2 years before the springs started breaking. then I got my 1st new clutch and it lasted about 3 months before the above pic. the 2nd lasted all of 3 weeks. keep in mind I had barley gotten them to the "break in miles" so I hadn't driven hard or anything. mostly highway miles.

btw: if it matters I have an RPS flywheel and pressure plate.

[green-lantern]

I had a USED RPS sprung 6 puck for about 2 years before the springs started breaking. then I got my 1st new clutch and it lasted about 3 months before the above pic. the 2nd lasted all of 3 weeks. keep in mind I had barley gotten them to the "break in miles" so I hadn't driven hard or anything. mostly highway miles.

btw: if it matters I have an RPS flywheel and pressure plate.

You are just replacing the disk right? You would think the pressure plate or TOB is defective or something.

[GTwizard]

Your disc looks really thin. I run a spec and the plate it self is about .125 thick. yours looks thin and could have allowed rivets to fitige. I have also seen post were the specs have been doing the same thing. I believe this is do to the clutch builder trying to save money on the rivets or the purchasing departments not knowing better and getting rivets that have no certs. Crap like that happens all the time in manufacturing. May be the same with the dics plate as well. Temper may not be were it needs to be as well. If I ever had a clutch do that. I would send it back. If you buy a product that does not hold up to advertized stresses, it becomes returnable even under survere race condition. As that is why you bought the product in the first place. In your case I am looking at product failure in the picture you posted.
We also have a design flaw in our set up. I don't think the clutch manufacturers compensate for it. And this is their out. This flaw is the fact that the input shaft of our trans does Not protrude in to the rear of the crank. This allows for shaft flex as there is no support for the front of said shaft. Any slight waring of the imput shaft support bearing and your clutch will for sure take a side load beating that was never factured in to the desgn. They can't. Now all that being said, I would take a guess and say your trans is on the way out. Input shaft is having an issue maintaining alignment under load. Just my $.02

[Echo419]

how can I make sure it's not the trans without replacing it and hoping for the best?
edit: the holes for the rivets appear to be ovaling out in the direction of it's rotation. if the trans was out of wack wouldn't it be more circular or at least up and down?

You are just replacing the disk right? You would think the pressure plate or TOB is defective or something.

yeah, just the disk. I was just putting those out there incase anyone was curious