Not a pretty sight. Makes me a little queazy.
Not a pretty sight. Makes me a little queazy.
1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.
Haven't removed the rods from the wrist pins yet. When I move #3 rod back and forth over the wrist pin you can see the abnormal wear spot and it doesn't move as freely as the rest. I think there is another one like that but I don't remember off the top of my head which one. I'm going to say the rod bushings held up fine considering the the conditions they were put under. I think I know where that question stems from and for now I'm gonna say they held up fine. I have however ordered Ray's Oliver rods to replace them with as I have intentions of pushing this thing harder than before (at least on occasion).
Jeff
Considering what you went through previously I feel lucky.
Edit: I am taking this with a grain of salt and hopefully this will help someone else considering running a used crankshaft on an anticipated high HP build. The previous set of bearings removed from this looked good. I didn't have the crank magnifluxed (spelling?) only polished and figured it would be good to go. The original build plan had a new crankshaft in it until I saw a good set of bearings come out. Then the tight ass in me came out and this is the result.
Jeff
Last edited by kywhitelightning; 02-25-2014 at 10:27 PM.
What do the other halves of mains look like? Couldn't this be "crank whip" that ray has described on high hp builds or even from pushing timing a little too far at one time or another during the process?
I know there are guys that change bearings after a dyno tune because they push and push and then back off. Pull the pan and swap bearings just in case.
I measured the crankshaft journals with a dial indicator while rotating it and had the above posted radial runout. The upper halves were beat up too as stated above.
If what you described was the case I would expect just the lower mains to be beat up from power. The outer mains were like the hands holding the jump rope to put it in perspective and only the insides were rubbed.
This crankshaft had a bent rod previously with the 19T's on #3. That may have started the process and the power it's pushing now just finished the job. It has nearly 140000 miles on it as it is the original OE shaft.
I might make a video of what I'm describing if there's intrest in seeing what I'm saying.
Jeff
Oh man, so sorry to see Jeff. FYI the Pauter Rods are beefier at the wrist pin and have more thread bite at the rod bolt than Olivers bro. Also something to think about... WPC coat what your putting back in. The zero friction upgrades are way better than any oil additives you can pour in.
When I see BC Rods and high horsepower builds... they're just not good enough. I know that wasn't the root cause in this case but it would have shown itself later. Damn bro... just damn.
Other than dry startup, what is the advantage of that coating? To me, if there is actual contact under power the coating is only going to last so long, right?
Link to said rods as I found some pauter rods on 3sx's site. I spent $1100 for these and all I have to go on was Matt said they were the best out there and when I called Ray earlier of coarse he said they were the best out there. Here's what I got. Prove them better please.
Pampena Motorsports Custom Billet Rods - Pampena Motorsports
Jeff
Yes, there's protection there from the coating on startup but that's not the enemy of your engine. Friction is. When metal gets hot from elevated friction levels it fatigues and distorts. You ever spin an engine over by hand with a WPC vs without? It's a night and day difference. Less friction, less heat, lower heat, less stress on rotating hingepoints and fasteners. The benefit is half-life service interval extension.
There's nothing wrong with Oliver Rods. I was just throwing information out there. Bigger wrists and .more thread bite typically indicate more strength. I'm sure as you recently discovered... the good rods have those characteristics and ain't cheap. Olivers are a significant upgrade from BC's. I'm sure you saw that spread Ray did comparing the two. I compared rods and pins as well some time ago and have my own favorites. I have no run time on Olivers so I can't speak for them other than a side by side.
Everyone's always wanting proof on what lasts under stress. Proof is results and how long shit lasts till you have to take it apart for servicing.
All I do is drive and change the oil, 5w30. What's in there may not be the best out there, or the lightest, or blessed by the big 3, but it's still together and I have long term road race track tested results. There's not many guys out there who can run all out at 30+psi boost levels on a roadcourse and do pulls from 70mph to 175mph every minute for hours and hours. I've been doing it for years and years without component fatigue or failure.
I really feel for ya bro. All the time and money. You'll find your own way.

Jeff, allow me to try to be helpful and don't take this as criticism.
What I see looking at your pics is a classic case of too much timing. Not only are the center mains wiped they have been beat on so hard that they are delaminating. The crank has bent from the excessive cylinder pressure and beat out the mains and the rest followed. I think you are doing the right thing switching to Oliver rods for 700AWHP, but I don't think any of the parts besides maybe the 4340 cranks could have taken this.
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
Jeff are you running a stock flywheel and stock harmonic balancer?
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