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Thread: 1997 VR 6-Speed Rebuild

  1. #11
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    How big is the hole? Weldable?

    As for swapping bearings....easiest way to remove races is to put case in oven ad heat until races drop out....then heat the new case and chill races and they drop in.

    Download the manual, you'll need it to set clearances. FYI, I never remove the dowel pins, never had a need to.

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  3. #12
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    the hole is about 1/4 - 3/8 but the AL around it is pretty bashed. I'l take a picture as soon as I can get it cleaned up a little more so it's clear. I have the manual from 3SX

  4. #13
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    Yeah don't know if I want to get this welded, it's bigger than I original thought. Need to find a way to transfer the bearings and seals.






  5. #14
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    It's up to you, but I've seen holes like that welded up.

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    I received this from Chris at Ninja performace, as we all know he works on these transmissions all the time. Having worked in an Aluminum foundry back when I was in my 20s I have to agree. The intakes we made for the Mustang and cross members we made for the Dodge Caravan had many areas we could not weld. Since I already have the mid case I just need to find someone that will press the bearings in for me, or add to my tool collection.

    "DO NOT have that welded to repair. That case is now beyond repair. That is a
    stress end section for the diff. The case is cast aluminum, and brittle. The
    stress fractures you can't see to weld will cause the trans to break apart
    under power.

    Replace the case. "



    Are there part numbers for these just incase I need to replace them



    Looking at the transmission rebuild manual it just calls the outer bearing race and oil seal.

    Good news the oven trick worked heated the case for about 20-30 minutes at 230F they pretty much came out. That would indicate the heat and freeze trick will work. So far I do not see the clearances in the manual for these.
    Last edited by Elderloc; 10-25-2013 at 02:59 AM.

  7. #16
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    I admit defeat, well I error on the side of caution. Since I do not have the proper tools to press the bearings in and measure the clearances off the crushed solder, I'm putting it back together. Of course I'm no expert at transmissions but there was very little metal on the drain plug, and I didn't see any wear on the gears. Hopefully the syncro units are in as good of shape. With the way my luck is I don't want to take a chance on just putting the transmission in with the shims as they are.

    This really sucks I'm going to have to pay $$$ to ship both ways and have it investigated by Chris. Don't know rather think it's a good idea to have one of those transmission places look it over. What is everyone else's take on the chain transmission places?

  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elderloc View Post
    What is everyone else's take on the chain transmission places?
    My opinion...

    • No way
    • No how
    • Not ever
    if you cant fix it with a hammer...then you have an electrical problem


  9. #18
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    That pretty much sums up my feelings as well. Probably get it working and have it fail 90days later or what ever the warranty is.

  10. #19
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    Chris would be the one to inspect it & competently report back to you with any issues or concerns he finds with it.
    '90 Toyota Celica GT Liftback..........................(X) (daily driver)
    '73 Dodge Challenger 340...............................(X)
    '91 Firestorm Red Stealth R/T TT.....................(X)

  11. #20
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    Oh I know I just wish I wasn't so damn far away, but if you are going to do it do it right. MI to SC is a haul, I'd love to just drive down drop the car off have him inspect and rebuild the trans, swap flute, change rear main and give an estimate, that's probably what I will do. Else I need to figure out the freight charges. Any ideas what the 6 Speed weights? I figure 125-150ish in a crate.

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