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Thread: 158.48 mph with a slipping clutch!

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    Jeff

    It's all pure speculation and guess work until we strip it down but I am thinking with the plates sticking, somehow the sustained hydraulic pressure was too much for the seal in the slave.

    Hey I might be waaayyyyy off the mark and it may be something completely different. All I know is the clutch was slipping like crazy then before the next run we had to change the slave again and even after that I could not select gears or start the car in gear due to creep

    André

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    Is it possible that the clutch was wore down too far to extend the rod out of the bore too far? I could see that but would suspect that to be unlikely. Either way I am very curious about the cause of the failures. I doubt it's power related, so the only thing I could see is that it may be movement related. Sounds like the clutch had a hard life, lol.

    Jeff

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    Would the clutches sticking create such force on the slave when engaging that it blew seals?

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    No idea, you may have more of an idea than me as I am not that technically clued up.

    André

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    Major Congratulations!

    What clutch you running? May want to think about a Tilton HTOB if you got room
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    It was an RPS carbon carbon.

    Tell me more about this Tilton HTOB

    André

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    Thought you were using a different clutch setup. Not sure if you have the clearance but it's being used on Eron's flywheels with Tilton clutches. Here's the thread on it but it's more towards the end.

    Eron's Flywheel

  9. #19
    image.jpgI wonder if a clutch fork stop like they use on the Evo would help here? I know it's a different application and reason but may work if the fork is kicking back and causing the slave cyl. failure.

  10. #20
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    A little history lesson about the hydraulic throw out bearing. How this one came to be is sheer coincidence. The 3/S has 3 millimeters more clearance in the bellhousing then DSM. When Jake Lehmkeul was trying to make a HTOB adaptation for the DSM market he initially bought the wrong one. Unfortunately the Tilton HTOB he initially purchased didn't fit. When he clearance the HTOB to a Clutchmaster twin disk in his 2g DSM initially, the one he selected to convert his DSM to HTOB was to tall by 1mm. He source another one and shelf'd it. He got it right the second time and successfully fitted the HTOB and so the NABR guys in our Denver club started switching to HTOB and twin disk. Jake made the suggestion to swap and so Erron elected to try it. Jake still happened to have the HTOB he bought that didn't fit laying around and he gave it to Erron to test fit. By absolute luck it fit. So the HTOB adaptation came to be as there was 2mm of clearance to spare.

    Jake designed the flywheel by using a ringgear separation and fuse method. When I asked Erron to SFI certify the flywheel so we could race it he had to tank the original design and source a billet one.

    Anyway, Tilton, Quartermaster, and Clutchmaster adaptations work much better than competitors because there's more bite on the input shaft and more engagement separation on the discs which holds more torque and keeps the shock down. The clutch that might work best for you Andre is an AASCO chromoly Evo adapted flywheel with a Tim Zimmer center pack and the Tilton HTOB.

    There was a thread on this board a long time ago where I outlined and explained the geometry limitations of the stock slave assembly and why the HTOB is where it's at but I'm not sure where it's at now.

    I did find you a flywheel and Jake is getting back to me regarding the new Tilton HOW's and the improvements on the DSM setups running 7's. I'll pm you.

    First test might just be to swap to a HTOB and see if the geometry is the issue. You may actually have a good clutch.

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