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Thread: Back To Basics: Budget Rebuild

  1. #61
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    So as an update, spent more time porting the housings. Much as I liked the tungsten bits, I ended up picking up a file bit for a standard drill for like $3 at Lowes which works just as well (if not better) for the turbine housings. Did some more work with that.

    Also have compiled a list of everything I need to complete the rebuild at a minimum and at a maximum, contemplating doing the output shaft/input spool while I have everything apart, but I don't particularly want to open up my transmission although the shaft looks pretty worn so probably better to replace it than have it fail while I'm somewhere. Currently looking at around 600 on the low end, and 1800 on the high end. Hopefully I can get more of these parts sold to get more done sooner rather than later. Wanting to pick up a welder and do some custom work for manifolds (and to the body) but that may have to wait a while. Whether I swap to using the native 13T turbine housing with Subaru flanges on the manifold and precats, or just reinforce the factory welds, Idk yet. If I had the time and patience, could custom weld up a front manifold maybe, but that would take time and research and I'm not sure if there would be enough benefit to warrant it. Honestly, when you start looking at replacement headers, might as well go T3/T4 imo.

    Need to make some more braided lines for the oil cooler and the oil feed. Still need to complete the AN waterneck conversion. Decided to just use the 4AN hose and fittings rather than sending it back for 6AN. By the time I paid the restock fee and the added cost for the 6AN, it'd have run me another 40% and coolant flow isn't COMPLETELY necessary with these anyhow, so 4AN shouldn't hurt in this case even if it's not an ideal match. Going to have to loosely bolt the heads and exhaust back on to get an idea for length for the hose. If I'm lucky, may have enough left to do the oil feeds as well.

    Fuel hat conversions haven't exactly taken off like I'd hoped, but I'm thinking come spring when folks get tax returns I'll sell a few more. Still have some ideas to make them better, but won't happen for a while until I get these sold, have money tied up in the parts so can't invest in trying new things with it (or new parts.) I'd like to get rid of the factory wiring and go to a more consolidated style to free up space for an AN return without having to drop the tank and replace the factory one. That said, the tank is pretty rusty externally, so I may drop it just to clean it up for my own peace of mind. The cost of what I want to do that conversion to the wiring though would add around $50-60 in parts, so unlikely to make it to a production version as at that point it's around $200 with AN feed and return plus the conversion, that's close to what a custom aluminum would cost from IPS.

    Trying to sell my old DP+borla exhaust and FMIC to afford a more ideal set up (IMO) of a tanabe Medallion Touring Catback and a Dual Core FMIC, although fortunately those are easy to replace down the road, so if I don't get it done during the rebuild then it's no big deal to swap later.
    Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
    Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts

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    Inching closer and closer to completion. List of must haves to complete the rebuild is shrinking.
    new head bolts, crank pulley tool, oil cooler lines, rebuild heads

    Decided to press ahead with the AN4 for the waterneck conversion for now. The smaller lines will still allow some coolant flow, and while it's not ideal for flow the smaller OD should make it a bit easier to route the hose. Plan on tapping the waterneck, threading with sealant and using some JB weld on top of that. Whole thing will be getting painted as well after.

    More interest from folks in the fuel hat (and complete fuel system) conversions, but price seems to be a bar, despite it being cheaper than most vendor alternatives. Still no other real sales on parts, which leads to a new issue: I am now on borrowed time to get the car running as I have to relocate in a couple weeks. Attempting to work something out to keep the vehicle at its current location until I get it running, however need to get parts sold to clear space to do so. Whatever doesn't sell shortly is going to get scrapped both for money to help wrap this up and to clear space.

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    VaaahRooommm!

    Help them, for they know not that which they do not know!
    CoopKill's Mistress Makeover Thread!
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoopKill View Post
    VaaahRooommm!
    Hush you. Can't be helped you see all my updates on FB before I post them here.

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    Are you sure you need new head bolts? or do you just not have any?

    Quote Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy View Post
    I bet she smells of old mustard and sawdust.
    Jeremy

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    I've got the set I used before for the first start up, but didn't measure them before I used them so not sure how much stretch they may have after being torqued down once already.
    Last edited by sergechronos; 12-29-2013 at 02:38 PM.

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    Well, went out there to do the waterneck conversion and hit two snags:
    1) the 7/16 drill bit I needed for the tap doesn't have a shank small enough for my power drill as it was designed for use in the drill press which hasn't been run in years and may not work anymore.
    2) Don't have a tap wrench/handle big enough to hold the tap.

    So project is again on hold. I'll order a set of tap wrenches/handles and pick up another drill bit that fits. I'll head out again in a few minutes to do something else on the to do list. Sticking to stuff that minimizes how long I'm out there given the temperature and weather. Need to get shit sold so I can at least get a heater out there at this point.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sergechronos View Post
    I've got the set I used before for the first start up, but didn't measure them before I used them so not sure how much stretch they may have after being torqued down once already.
    Not sure if I'd worry about that. If the threads look good and you can screw them in the holes smoothly then I'd use them.

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    For the 100 bucks it'd run for another set of new OEM head bolts, would rather not risk it. Keeping in mind the trouble I've had with the car so far, would rather just be sure that there's as little chance as possible for lift short of having a head lift fix done. Same reason I'm considering doing the output shaft and input spool replacement, I just have that luck that it would fail between when I get it running and when I do the next stage of work next winter.

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    As a very delayed update, here's where I stand:
    I snagged a set of tubular manifolds and precat deletes that I am looking forward to trying out. I will be cleaning them up and likely ceramic coating them down the road. OBX brand, looks markedly different than the really old versions, so I'll post a review of figment ice I reassemble the motor.
    I also snagged a set o Muellerized JIC FLC/TARs (which will arrive this afternoon) for a very good price. Hadn't planned to do suspension but Muellerized ones pop up very rarely so decided to splurge.

    I am switching to a Ninja solid and Kevlar belt since the car isn't a DD and is less likely to fail and bend valve s which brings me to the next delay:
    Heads.

    I have two sets of heads, one stock the other smoothed/slighly ported. Unfortunately both sets need valve guides, and valve jobs. Quoted 500-600 per set to get it done (plus cost of buying new guides as well). So that is going to devour a large chunk of the rebuild budget this spring.

    Still debating between dual core fmic or doing custom smic with hard piping. Hate the look of the dual core but costs will likely be significantly cheaper.

    Not sure at this time if I can complete this with my finances currently. Would need to sell several more parts to afford it (shameless plug for my listing in the classifieds.). Willing to postpone completion to make sure its done right though.

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