Back To Basics: Budget Rebuild

[sergechronos]

No concerns about it altering AF table to change the amount of air you're letting out? I was more concerned with the size of the valve (internally) and the hose. What it's accounting for with 9Bs may be undersized for 14Bs. Whether it's plumbed back into the system, or goes to a catch can (or to the exhaust/ground) for me is going to come back more to making sure it has little to no repercussions with what the ECU is measuring for.

I'm going to have to talk with Greg about it and see what the ECU is doing to account for the PCV system.

[familyMAN]

I'm speed density so don't care

[CoopKill]

I will probably respray mine either flat black, or most likely a semi-gloss darker gray that is close to the header color. Glossy black is a bitch to spot leaks in the hard to see areas.

[sergechronos]

Leak points for oil on the block: oil pressure gauge, turbo feeds, oil pump gasket.
Leak points for coolant on block: plugs on sides of block, water pipe from crossover tube and water pump.

Otherwise leaks points are on external components, the heads or the oil pan area. The latter two are brightly colored to make spotting them easy.

I've considered a brighter colored block, but I just think it may look a bit garish in the bay.


Eric: I'm planning to go through Montero MAF, then GM blow thru and then SD, possibly with metal and rubber pipes if I can borrow he necessary components just to get back to back to back kind of runs for data purposes for the community. Seems like few do this incrementally so data is a bit scattered.

[TurboSinceBirth]

The OEM PCV valve should work just fine for you. (Edit: I forgot you went TD05. You can run the OEM PCV valve or vent everything). It's good enough for pump gas levels. I never had issues with it blowing open until higher boost levels than what you can safely do on pump gas. TD04s are the only turbos I've personally experienced that needed some vacuum to pull down the oil from the CHRA so it doesn't get stuck going out the exhaust seals on the turbo. Gravity alone can't make the oil fall fast enough out of it. For TD05s and T3s open atmosphere worked fine on the crankcase but that was also with -10AN oil drains welded to the pan plus the physical size of the CHRA and drain design allows for less head loss when the oil drains.

[sergechronos]

I am running 10AN drains, and it will be a corn fed machine so I can push it farther. Not entirely sure what all is going to be necessary, but I do plan to start with the OEM PCV valve and go from there if it needs more. Hopefully it doesn't, but high boost TD05 on ethanol is new territory for me. Just going to play it by ear and see where it goes. After experiences with the car so far, Ive found its a lot better to plan ahead and have back ups just in case.

[sergechronos]

Well, finally got it dragged up here. Had to take the rear bumper off to get it to fit onto the trailer..Thank goodness I already had the side skirts off or else they would've had to come off too. With the coil overs, the car was just too low to make it easy. And so damn wide that it barely fit on the trailer anyhow. Only real damage in all of this is that I had one of the speed sensor/abs sensors from the wheel hub unbolted and it caught on the trailer and tore off..Not sure if I need to actually replace it (since I'm going to delete ABS) or if I can just bolt it back in without it being wired up.

So, car is here, body parts are here, just need to do the welding for the 2g swap up front and I could have it looking proper on the exterior (after a long overdue wash and wax anyhow.) I'm going to wrap up the AN6 conversion to the waterneck this week and get all these shelving units hung up in the garage but next week I hope to be able to start yanking out shit and doing the wiring. ABS is going, and I'll be painting the engine bay before installing the new non-ABS components. The insulation will be getting replaced and I will start remaking the wiring harness this winter. I will need to mount a hood back up to cover the work as I go, and I need to get a car cover to fit on the car as well..But, progress is progress.

Definitely needs a good long washing, compounding and waxing to try to protect what paint is there. I'm probably going to have to sack up and get autodollys to be able to roll the car around on my own. $160ish for a set of 4 brand name, or $120ish for a set of 4 through Harbor Freight..Anyone have any feedback on the HF ones?

[sergechronos]

When I get out of class tonight, hopefully going to finish dropping the rear subframe. Bit concerned about the weight shift once I drop it, all four corners are up on jack stands, but there is also no engine or transmission in the front so shouldn't make it insanely unbalanced. All the same, still likely will put a jack under the front as well just to be safe.

Going to be a long road cleaning up the underside of the car, lots of oil and road grime. Will be putting a rubberized undercoating down as well for future protection.

Also snagged a cheap FMiC set up for the TD05s. Nothing special, just can't justify 1.5k+ to pursue my SMIC project when the car isn't even running.
Contemplating cutting the rear floor out and doing something different with the gas tank. I'd like something baffled a bit better than the OEM. Maybe like a 16-20 gallon fuel cell. If I can get rid of that absurd hump for the spare tire so much the better.

[Ondonti]

What kind of fuel cell? My sumped drag racing cell is full of worthless "anti sloshing" foam and is only good when accellerating forward. Hit the brakes with less than 3 gallons in the 12 gallon cell and it sucks crazy air. I need to build some trap doors....some day.

[sergechronos]

I'm expecting I'm going to need to get a local shop to custom make it with trap doors. Unfortunately, not finding much in the way of fuel cells that are already done with trap doors. Most just have the safety foam and call it good.

I think that making a small sump area and outfitting it with trap doors wouldn't be too difficult. What will be interesting is figuring out the fuel sender solution, factory sender is like a 110-5OHM for fuel level which obviously few other vehicles use so then height will need to be similar to what the OEM tank was. Most aftermarket solutions use a GM style which is (I believe) 0-90 OHM for fuel level, but of course then you have the issue that it wouldn't work for our fuel gauge.