Back To Basics: Budget Rebuild

[sergechronos]

I did get my mellerized JICs into the strut tower today as well though. Need to put the LCA and stuff back though. Back is killing me at the moment however


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[CoopKill]

WTF is this?



Edit: The pic of the floor with the coins/rusted part going through.

[sergechronos]

Not sure. Some kind of water issue. I checked all the rubber plugs on the body and they were there. Best I can guess is either the car spent some time with the window cracked while sitting or window seal?

Busted through the insulation up front and the floor pan underneath was rust free so not sure what the deal is there.

Passenger side is good.

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[sergechronos]

So filled the floor area with expanding foam and the area behind where the sill plate mounts. A quick tap test sounds far less tin like. I am hoping once I lay down this sound deadening and insulation it helps.

Just going to assume that was damage is from a window left cracked open or something.

Current plan of attack: foam, rubberized undercoating, then silver heat barrier then sound deadening layer itself and maybe top with a carpet padding if there's room without messing with fitment of the carpet over the top. Likely won't get to it all this weekend though.

I plan to loosely reattach the LCA and knuckles to be able to move the car. And also to get the rear coil overs installed so I can sell these ECS struts and shocks.

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[sergechronos]

Loosely putting the front suspension back on just to roll it out of the garage to do some cleaning and try to sort shit out. I will likely be ordering all new bolts for the front suspension pieces and new bushings later this summer.

I did take some videos of the sound difference between the two sides before and after foaming it. but they're waiting to upload still.

[sergechronos]

Unfoamed PS:

Foamed DS Floor:

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[CoopKill]

Interested in road noise difference! Seems to have made a huge difference especially in the floor.

[sergechronos]

Unfortunately that will be a few months (minimum) before I know. I believe that Gonzo did this though, not sure when he will be back on the road (or if he is already.)

Also unfortunate, there is no way to tell what the effect will be. You can't really seal off each side from each other and take sound tests, and it's been about 3 years since I've seriously driven the car so I can't say for sure. Even any difference I may hear might entirely be placebo effect.

[sergechronos]

Lot of driving yesterday on my day off chasing down parts. New turbos, manifolds, downpipe, engine block, forged rods, forged pistons and a variety of other parts were picked up.

The engine parts will be headed to the machine shop tomorrow, I'll have to pull the crank out of my spare short block to take it up and have it balanced for the new components as well. I will be getting the big ends on the rods resized to come out at about 20 thou, the block will be getting honed, tanked and maybe even line bored if necessary (unlikely though.) The pistons will need new rings (Not sure if I need to grab another set of Wiseco rings, or if OEM rings or a different manufacturer would work) but I can handle that on my own.

Turbos will be getting some cosmetic work done for grinding down some weld areas and sanding off paint to inspect, possibly getting some welds touched up. The manifolds, precats, waste gate dumps and turbine housings will all be ceramic coated before install to cut down on heat and try to keep it in the exhaust where it belongs and does the most good. Still undecided on what to do with the compressor housings aside from the obvious that I will be sanding and smoothing them as well, possibly a ceramic coat as well.

I will have a couple days this weekend where I hope to get at least some minor work done (like finish installing the coil overs, and prep the interior for the new insulation and sound deadening so I can install the new interior.) Will likely be a few weeks before the engine would be done with the machine shop anyhow, and I already know I'm not going to have the car on the road this year (as I still need new OEM head bolts, make my customer fuel sender conversion, drop and clean the gas tank, pull the front and rear subframes for cleaning, painting and bushings, figure out my intercooler and piping solution that I want to go with, etc.) but I hope to at least have the long block back together and waiting to go by this fall.

The long block I can build easily on the side, but before I roll the car back into the garage that I'm working out of, I have a lot of repairs, cleaning and reorganization to do in the shop. Before I started the project, I never anticipated I was going to end up being this deep in it. I expect some minor repair that snowballed into a complete overhaul and didn't plan accordingly. I will be removing several things and installing shelving, as well as laying down MDF or plywood sheets (or similar) to cover up the wood flooring which is just long runs of like 2x6 lumber with gaps. I also have a leaky roof that I have absolutely got to fix this summer as well before I do anything else in that part of the shop (which is the only area big enough to fit even part of the car.) In short, after dropping off the rotating assembly and block at the shop, I likely won't have much in the way of car updates for the next several weeks.

[sergechronos]

After a few walls of text posts, here's some pictures with some updates...My sister and niece came to visit over the weekend so I didn't have much time to work on the car, but hopefully this Sunday is a bit different.

I did drop those parts off at the machine shop last week, today I am taking my old (but already machined) short block with my good forged crank over. The shop is going to turn a spare crank that I have and oversize the bearings so that this can either double as a spare block, or I can sell it (although doubt there's much market for a 2 bolt with a turned forged crank except as a stock or BPU replacement) and put the money towards a four bolt back up. I did talk with the Ninja though, and was informed that yes the Wiseco pistons need the Wiseco rings. So I ordered a set of rings and a set of ARP 2 bolt main studs as well which should allow for 775awtq before girdle push. Plenty for this or if I decide to go bigger down the road.


Coil overs are installed up front, but the rears have not been yet.

No fender on:



With fender on:




Honestly I like the look as is considering you know...No engine, transmission, hood, or anything else is in up front..The car is basically missing what's probably 500+ pounds off the nose right now. Of course I can always adjust the height later, which I plan to. Goal at this point is to just have it on the coil overs. Once the car is running and driving, I'll set the ride height how I want, and see how I feel about the current valving and dampening, then get the car corner weighted and send the coil overs with the info back out to Muellerized to get it adjusted to better suit me. Or sell it and step up to Ohlins if I've got the cash.

Still waiting on the electrical bulkhead for my fuel sender..The size of which will determine much of the design for the rest of the sender. The Walbro416 has a 3/8" outlet, which would mean that an AN6 would be about the right size, but I still plan to size up to AN8 as my fuel rails and FPR are already set up for AN8. Still overkill, but for the cost difference when running my own hose, I see no reason not to. I will also likely be mounting the fuel filter near the back, but I may mount it up higher on the firewall. I am undecided about relocating the battery to the back or not for weight distribution purposes, but if I don't I will be putting it as low down in the engine bay as I can get away with, which means no fuel filter or washer tank up front there.

I did start the sound deadening on the driver side


This is a fairly cheap sound and thermal barrier. I don't know if it will make much of a difference. It's pretty thin, but the fibers are much denser and closely packed than the jute on the back of the OEM carpet. I will also likely top it with a bit of closed cell foam so long as I can still fit the carpet over it. The doors I am unsure of how I will handle. I'm thinking of ordering CLD tiles from sound deadener showdown to put inside the door, put closed cell over the interior side of the door and then put the sound and thermal insulation on the back of the door card. While it's not all closely layered should be alright still I think.

I do plan on using significantly more expanding foam in the areas in back behind the interior panels around the back seat. There's a lot of empty space in there for sound to bounce around and it's easier to do that, then top with sound deadening and closed cell. I noticed a pretty significant difference ( to my ears) of sound under the car (tapping on the underside of the floor pan) between the side that I foamed and the side i didn't, as well as through the rocker panel area as well. Perhaps placebo effect, but outside of a bit of extra weight, I doubt it would hurt much.

I am on the fence about just redoing the entire door wiring as they are a mess. Alternatively I could pick up door wiring harnesses used, no telling if they'd be in better shape than mine or not though. I also need to fix (and test) the machine gun locks before I do the sound deadening on the doors.

Lastly, just for giggles cause there aren't a lot of pictures showing it:



TD04L turbine vs the TD05 turbine. Pretty substantial difference, however it does fit the GT goal I have in mind a bit more than the 13Ts did. And of course, should have my highway cruising out of boost (which is always nice for fuel economy purposes.) I am still on the fence between drawthrough with the bubble for it or blow through, but I will document each change exactingly