in for more info as i comes.
in for more info as i comes.
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So I got my hands on a FPR Solenoid. What next? Should I send you a PM Greg or shall we discuss in this thread? I sold my Hallman MBC.
Okay I'm gonna walk you thru this but its important that you realize this setup hasn't been fully tested to my satisfaction. I do not know the limitations or long term life expectancy of these solenoids! If you are willing to accept the risks then proceed!
What are the advantages to this?
The stock boost control solenoid is a simple bleeder valve which releases the air before it gets to the wastegates. It does this by opening a valve briefly to let air escape. The valve opens/closes in pulses. These pulses are defined as "duty cycle". Bleeding the air away keeps the wastegates shut longer thus giving you more boost. The problem is the stock solenoid is too small for the stock 6psi wastegate spring. Even 13Gs flow more air than the stock solenoid can bleed away.
As a result, a different solenoid is required. One that will block the airflow from the wastegates rather than try to bleed it. People have experimented with running different "pills" which aid the stock BCS by restricting airflow to the wastegates but the biggest problem with this is you also raise your "wastegate pressure". Meaning while the solenoid is shut off, your minimum boost is much higher than stock. It's also a PITA to make these pills and you have to experiment with different size ones to see what will work with your setup.
The problem with all the aftermarket solenoids out there is you can't plug them into our ECU. It'll fry the board. Luckily we have two 3-port solenoids on our cars already which will work without damaging the ECU!! Can't beat OEM equipment.
First off, you can use either the FPR or the EGR solenoid. Both will work. I have no idea which one works better. Since I planned on keeping the EGR in my car, I opt to use the FPR solenoid. Both use the same style connector (which unfortunately are different than the BCS connector) and the only difference between the two are one has a cap over the upper port while the EGR has both ports facing the same direction. They both get setup in the same way.
For wiring the solenoid I hacked up the harness. All the solenoid share the same ground wire so that was easy. You just have to make sure the white wire for the BSC signal goes into your new solenoid otherwise the ECU won't be able to operate this piece. SODER YOUR CONNECTIONS!!!
This image will show you how to route the vac lines. Note that the port that goes to the y-pipe doesn't have a flared end. This isn't good for pressurized environment as it can blow off over time. I used a bit of glue on the nipple to help hold the vac line on.
After you get this setup it's important you test the solenoid operation. Open EVOScan, turn on your ignition (don't start the car) and connect EVOScan. Down in the custom request box at the bottom of the page, enter the request for the BCS, select repeat check box and hit enter.
If your setup was done correctly you should hear and feel the solenoid clicking on/off once every 6 seconds.
After testing the solenoid, its time to tune. Open up ECUFlash and immediately disable the CEL for the solenoids in periphery 2 (bit 15 and bit 9). Next you need to disable fuel cut by setting the Delay Timer to 10000ms (you'll find this in the Limits section).
Next go into the Turbo section and select Base WGDC table. Select all of the values and set them for something conservative. I usually start with 55%
Next, open the BCS Corrections table and select all the values and set them to 0. This will disable the Target Engine Load Error corrections feature so we can tune.
Now, flash this to your ECU, start the motor and let it warm up completely.
Tuning is actually really simple. More WGDC means more boost/load. 0% WGDC is wastegate pressure. 100% is the most boost/airflow your setup will make. You'll need to raise/lower the base WGDC table to fine tune Load.
Tune using 3rd gear from 2500 RPMs FOOT ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR till redline. Datalog knock, RPM, WGDC and 2byte Load (you can log boost if you have it setup too but honesty boost pressure is a useless number now that you know the engines true airflow). The object of the game is to get those Load numbers as high as possible without knock. Remember Load = torque and moar is betta!
I typically add 5-10% incrementally during tuning. Having an RPM based duty setup like this is nice because you can regulate the turbos to operate in their best efficiency range thru-out the engine's power band. You'll keep upping the Duty Cycle and eventually start to see there will be a point that you keep raising the Duty Cycle but Load doesn't go any higher. This means you've maxed the turbo at that RPM. As a rule of thumb (especially when you're running pump gas) it's at this point you're just forcing hot air thru the motor and making it more knock prone. I usually back off the duty cycle about 5% when this point is reached (if you aren't already knocking).
I also never alter the Base WGDC (Low Octane) table. It's already set for zero which means wastegate pressure.
After you get WGDC tuned, you can then re-enable the ECU's Target Engine Load correction system if you so desire to use it (it's a nice feature). Simply re-enter the values you zeroed out in the Load Error Correction table. This table simply tells the code how much Duty Cycle to add or take away from the solenoid based on how far the actual Load is from the Target value.
Next you need to adjust the Target Engine Load tables to match the 2-byte load numbers you were logging. These values by default are set to match the HP curve of a stock VR4 so you'll need to adjust them for your new setup. Again, just worry about the High Octane Tables.
You'll notice there's an issue where you can't enter a value greater than 159 load into the tables. This is because of the 1 byte limitation. This is where the Boost Control Load Offset table comes in. It's another value which is added to the table look up to get around that limitation.
Let's say you got your turbos dialed in the way you like and this is your log for example:
*i will finish this post later
Last edited by Greg E; 10-26-2013 at 06:53 PM.
2014 Exomotive Exocet - #101 "shocker yellow" - 1.8L 5-speed 3.9 torsen FMII powered
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99 Solano Black VR4 - #16 of 287 - ground up restoration - sold
98 Pearl White VR4 #54 of 231 - 12.84@105mph - 93 Octane 12.50@107mph - 100 Octane with Chromed ECU - sold
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"I don't actually work on cars, I just talk about them on the internet."
Thank You! I will stay tuned for the updates...Could you explain a bit more(maybe a diagram) for the wiring please?
NVM...I'm such an idiot...my car never came with the stock stuff, so please excuse my ignorance! haha
Advantages to this vs using lcdbc? Curious as I as most are looking to use the best solutions to date...
Has anyone ran those solenoids up to 35 psi or just 20-25? I'm looking for something with quite a bit of headroom if I replace my Hallman or Mac solenoid.
95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.
Awesome, will have to give this a shot when I get the car up and running!
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