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Thread: my planned build

  1. #1

    my planned build

    These are the parts im going to start buying one at a time with each check I get. this does not Include machine work or misc parts or any tuning this is just a rough draft..

    Vr4 parts list

    Top end

    3SX adj cam gear. 300.00
    lash adjust 100.00
    hi rev springs 400.00
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------
    total 800.00


    Rotating assembly
    oem gasket set. 500.00
    Wiesco pistons 700.00
    forged rods. 600.00
    bearing set 100.00
    -----------------------------------------------
    1900.00

    fuel &turbo
    pte 680's 200.00
    aem fuel pump 150.00
    dr650 2200.00
    ----------------------------------------------------------
    2550.00

    grand total 5250.00



    YES I KNOW IM MISSING STUFF
    Last edited by garver21; 08-20-2013 at 08:43 PM. Reason: revisied the list

  2. #2
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    What do you plan on using it for? Is it for the strip? Autocross? Road Course? Daily driver?

    What do you have now? What goals are you looking for in terms of horse power? What type of fuel do you plan on using? Meth injection?

    What mods do you currently have to help support this?
    Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
    Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts

  3. #3
    Plan on it being daily driver with moderate strip use and some autocross .
    Built trans. One piece cf driveshaft, tcase brace, got fuel loop and safc 2 , and mmcd. And other stuff that I cant remember.
    Plan on just using 93 octane. And getting aroud 600hp is my goal by not a big deal.

  4. #4
    Plan on it being daily driver with moderate strip use and some autocross .
    Built trans. One piece cf driveshaft, tcase brace, got fuel loop and safc 2 , and mmcd. Egr delete, fuel pump bypass thing.And other stuff that I cant remember.
    Plan on just using 93 octane. And getting aroud 600hp is my goal by not a big deal.

  5. #5
    It will be tuned in atl, will have a fmic just unsure of size I would need and what will fit, car already has 3" exhaust from turbos back. Fuel pump I have a aeromotive but sure its not big enough so will be gettin in contact with them about what will work for my setup..

  6. #6
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    For what you're spending and looking to do, I would honestly say you should look into a Pampena shortblock. A stage 2 should be enough, but a stage 3 is pretty much bullet proof. If you want to build it yourself, or have a local shop build it, I would recommend Ninja Performance's rods (currently on sale for 499 I think) and Pampena's pistons with his wrist pins. Is there a reason you have a forged crank listed? Is yours no good (or cast?)

    Cams I would hold off on until there are more results from the redesigned BC cams (there's another thread about it on the forums) to see how they do. Read the thread about it and you'll see why I recommend waiting. The 3SX cam gears are fine, but make sure whoever puts the long block together knows how to properly degree the gears as they have been shown to be off. You could also look into a set of Unorthodox cam gears. Your pricing on the heads seems to include the core charge on it, the heads are $2400. You'll want to go with the upgraded springs most likely if you're upgrading the cams. I would also look into gears for the oil pump (not sure if there's an equivalent for the water pump) since with those heads and cams you're probably going to want to extend the rev range out a bit. Alternatively, you could step down to Stage 2 heads and springs, which should be well matched for a DR750 and street use vehicle. You may also want to look at getting the head lift fix applied.

    Fuel pump would probably be satisfied with a Walbro 400. If you think you may run ethanol in the future (with DR750s would net you north of 700hp), get the E85 pump. You could look into a methanol injection system to help control knock and allow you to run more boost if you're adamant on sticking with pump. For TD04s, especially with the 750s, you may want to look at the Pampena Dual Core front mount kit. Dual cores are less likely to develop boost surging.

    If I were in your shoes and spending this much money though, I would go with OEM gaskets, at least for the heads. The OEM MLS headgaskets are the best you can get. Don't cheap out on a big build to save a couple hundred bucks. I would also go ahead and get brand new OEM 120k components. You could also look into a Ninja solid tensioner and Gates Kevlar belt, they've had good results. I think youre 12k will probably be 20k by the time it's all said and done though.

    Do you have any experience building an engine? How familiar are you with these cars? How familiar are you with your car in particular? When was the last time maintenance was done for the car? What kind of power do you have now?

    You seem to have compiled a list of really high dollar parts and gone for the bigger is better idea, which is fine, but may not be suited to how you intend to actually use the car. While the goal of 600hp is nice, 500awhp is quite a bit of power and obtainable with a smaller investment. Not trying to dissuade or insult you in any way, I just don't get a feeling that you know what you're getting into with this mod list and goals. I would rather you know before you get started what you're looking at and that you approach it the right way.

  7. #7
    I don't own a VR4! Not Verified
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    Garver,

    I would really sit down and think about how much money you want to put into the car. You will pay to play especially in the 600 hp arena, and don't expect 600 hp to be a reliable daily driver unless you have dumped around 20k into it to get it there. Also, so many people make the mistake of buying parts and installing along the way, really, you want to have all of the parts purchased and in hand so you can build it all at once. The reason I say this is because I made this mistake and I ended up spending way more money than was necessary, and I never broke 400 crank hp with the car. Carefully weigh your options and make sure that you life expenses are priority number 1.

    Flashable ECU is a much better option than AEM. Research it and see if it is applicable. Shoot for a different hp and I can bet you will be happy with the results.
    Your 1993 Dodge Stealth is one of 6351 that received VIN numbers. Based on the order of the serial numbers, your car was the 5212nd out of the 6351 that were made that year.
    Your car was built in the 3rd week of February 1993. Of the 47380 vehicles made at the Nayoga plant, your car was the 40537th vehicle to be created that year.
    There are 281 other cars that were made with both the same interior and exterior color. There are 779 cars with the same exterior color and 2316 cars with the same interior color.
    Note: The production order is assigned based on the order of the serial number.

  8. #8
    Im going to buy a stock motor to so I can keep driving the car. But yes I planed on doing newbelt pump and all preventative maintance on the car also . Nothing is set in stone this is just a goal. When I had the car two years ago it ran great with 13g's but I sold it and peopel have change parts so idk much about car anymore.. I have built mustang motors. And 4cyl motors . I dont plan to build thia motor quick I know its going to be a year or two to get all the parts I need though about just buying a forged short block. And as far as I know my crank is a stock 1st gen crank.. I wanna build a stout motor to drice daily and take to the drag on fridays and beable to rank.
    it is only a 1/8th mile track.

  9. #9
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    Much easier way to go about this: DR650s, Flash ECU + Tactrix cable and software (Evos use the same thing so a shop familiar with tuning Evos should be able to do this), stage 2 Pampena block (with forged crank if your spare block doesn't have one). Heads and cams are kind of optional. If you can afford to do it all at once, then go ahead. Otherwise, use the stock stuff for now until you can get it done, you never know, the 650s may be more than enough power for you as is.On E85 or meth injection, you CAN see north of 600. Should still see around 500 even on pump 93. Ray hit over 500 with an old stock motor, fuel pump and 550cc injectors, plus of course fuel and boost controllers.

    A front mount isn't necessary, DSM side mounts should suffice, a front mount will generally be more efficient, so I would grab a dual core front mount from Pampena (he can ship it back to you when he ships the engine back).
    Spark blow out may be a concern, so you would want to pick up a spark booster of some form
    At least 255lph pump and bigger injectors are definitely in store, 850CC should be more than sufficient (and probably overkill) for pump, but you may need to swap them out for bigger if you switch to ethanol down the road. Not sure what the current size of your pump is, but if it's not at least 255lph, then go ahead and upgrade to as big as you can afford.
    You may want an aftermarket FPR and gauge to keep an eye on things and help prevent overrun.

    All told, it'll realistically run you around 7-8k for that stuff. Throw in all the other stuff like an OEM gasket set and 120k items, probably looking around 10-12k total.

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  11. #10
    Well I habe 93-99 heads so hpefullu the rest of the block
    is the same

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