FYI, make sure clockspring is centered as well when doing the steering wheel remove and re-install thing. it has a pointer built in, so it's easy.
FYI, make sure clockspring is centered as well when doing the steering wheel remove and re-install thing. it has a pointer built in, so it's easy.
93 Stealth ES - 3000GT conversion,AWD conversion, ACPT 1 piece CFDS, Operable AA wing, 99 rear garnish, R/T sails, ABS delete, SS Clutch line, SS braided brake lines, Vac clutch assist, 2G TT brakes all around, Kyb Gr-2 shocks, Megan Springs up front Tein S tech's in the rear, Cusco rear strut bar, Ebay front strut bar, TT cat back exhaust , K&N cone filter, Poly motor mounts, Poly front suspension bushings, and poly rear diff bushings.
Dammit what pointer? I centered mine the hard way lol
On the clock spring there is a marker that says neutral, it has nothing to do with steering centering only the SRS and turn signals. Read near the end of the second post.
Just reporting in. Poly bushings are working awesome. The ones i made for the control arms are holding up just fine. Car feels very tight through corners and very responsive. Damn steering rack i bought off ebay is leaking like no other. I bet they forgot to cover the pinion teeth when it was rebuilt and tore up the seals =/. We will see how this lifetime warranty plays out from axle of dearborn.
Are the smaller bushings on the k frame the same as the ones on the cross frame up front? Do I need to order two sets of the subrame kit in order to get the front most bushings also, or did you just reuse your stock ones?
FYI if anyone wants the part numbers for the larger bolts and what not for the new front subframe bushing, this is what i used(I didn't see them listed):
18925 HCS 1/2-20 x 5.5 YZ8
33817 SAE THRU HD 1/2YZ KG
37084 1/2-20 Nylok NE YZ 8
Google the each line to go straight to the fastenal page.
I chose to go with a nylon lock nut.
Thanks Bloodlust182 for putting this together!
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