Ranked No. #1 in initial quality
Idiots, simply by being idiots, seem capable of achieving randomly bad things that are beyond the imaginings of sensible people.
I'm also in the solid front/rear, stock sides camp... I daily drive my car, and hate vibrations.
I rode in a 3/S with polys a few years ago, and I didn't mind it. So that made my decision to replace my old worn out mounts pretty easy. Ended up going with Seattle mounts though which have less give than the 3SX polys (since there's much less poly between the metal encircling it), so we will see how it works out. I've had solids on other cars before without too much trouble. And if I don't like it, then I can always switch to something else..Like the Nelson mount.
Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts
For my application I am going with solid mounts. Reason being is because I want to feel the vibrations of the engine especially with the cam profile that I will be putting in.
Your 1993 Dodge Stealth is one of 6351 that received VIN numbers. Based on the order of the serial numbers, your car was the 5212nd out of the 6351 that were made that year.
Your car was built in the 3rd week of February 1993. Of the 47380 vehicles made at the Nayoga plant, your car was the 40537th vehicle to be created that year.
There are 281 other cars that were made with both the same interior and exterior color. There are 779 cars with the same exterior color and 2316 cars with the same interior color.
Note: The production order is assigned based on the order of the serial number.
I prefer the feel of the Maximal solid mounts over stock. Makes me feel like I'm driving a performance oriented machine, even if the reality is anything but![]()
Good stuff all. I think I like the idea of poly F/R, stock sides. It makes perfect sense why my Sentra vibrated like crazy after I thought about it. I replaced it's tranny mount first which is directly connected to the unibody. The front and rear were on a lower subframe, and I didn't notice any increase when I replaced those.
Guess the "big gurl" will get poly f/r's. I think it was Aaronn who made the good point about drivetrain component movement. I recall after upgrading to a Spec 6puck that there was a TON of knocking from my Stillen hitting the undercarriage due to the increased torsional movement of the engine due to the "grabbiness" of the clutch.
Solids just outright scare me. She isn't a race car, so lower subframe or not, I'll stick with something that can absorb at least a little shock/vibration.
Rolling the Korean spiritual successor...
2019 Kia Stinger GT AWD
1991 Dodge Stealth R/T TT
Same goes for me. I ran 4 solids for a while, but the vibration/noise transfer got a bit annoying. Sold F/R, stock sides. No engine movement, no vibration. The F/R mounts are on the sub frame, which is connected to the unibody through rubber bushings. The sides are bolted directly to the unibody which is why they transfer so much into the cabin. I don't see the reason to go polys. Replace with solids and it's a forever fix.
1997 3000GT VR4 - Solano Black Pearl - E85 - E316G-BIG - All the boost
1993 3000GT VR4 - Maroon/Blacktop - Back to stock/Restoration
1994 Stealth R/T - Primer - Parts store
Forever = 7439 miles when driving a 3/S.![]()
Anyone run into any issues with the bolts binding in the center bushing of the motor mounts? Are you ass out of luck if they bind in a set of solids? At least with rubber (and maybe poly, I don't know its fire retarding properties) you can just burn them out if they give you trouble.
I always, and I think it's part of the actual service for them, grease them when I have them out whether it's polys or the factory rubbers. I use a moly fortified grease I picked up at Autozone for like 5 bucks, Valvoline synthetic brand. Hasn't failed me yet across several vehicles.
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