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Thread: New Lat 42 1g front bumper-progress pictures

  1. #1
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    Exclamation New Lat 42 1g front bumper-progress pictures






    I've been working on a new front bumper. It's part 2 of a 3 piece front end conversion I'm cookin' up. The headlight conversion is still in progress; you can see more here. I wanted to update the 1g front bumper to coincide with the updated look of the fixed lights. The idea is pretty simple: Remove the black mustache and open up the center for a front mount. I'm loving the way it's coming out.
    Step 3: A seriously mean top quality front splitter. But only if the headlights work out. So if you're interested get on the presale list!



    I kind of like the way it looks with the little slats on either side, but they're touching the pipes and keeping the bumper from fitting properly. I might have to get rid of them.

    I still don't know if I'm going to produce and sell this bumper. I'm probably going to make a fiberglass mold and 1 or 2 casts of it. If it works out well, maybe I'll make 5-10 for some lucky forum members. It's going to get cold here soon, so we'll see.


    Getting the PMP front mount kit to fit was a nightmare, and it leaks at the o ring. Still, can't beat it for the cost.




    (Everything is touching everything. The DN intake pipe is on at a rediculous angle, and that's after cutting part of the fan assembly and the fuse box bracket to make more room.)



    Kurt S.
    A.K.A. Lat 42
    A.K.A. "Fro Bro"

  2. #2
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    I like it...Along with the headlights.

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    I was also thinking of making inserts that fill in the side openings. They would have a built in fog light and air duct. The ducts could go to the front calipers, or they could go to the oil cooler and air intake.
    Something like this:



    The only problem is that my FMIC pipes (pmp kit) fit terribly and stick out quite a bit. I don't know if I'll have enough clearance for a fog light.
    I found these - they're 3.5" round by 2.2" deep.
    If anyone knows of any 3"-4" round fogs that are thinner I'd appreciate it.

    I'm hoping to manufacture this bumper out of ABS plastic. I'm still not sure if the market is there though. Thoughts? Opinions?

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    keep in mind lat, make sure there is air flow to the oil cooler if you add fog lights.
    vroom vroom i drive a 93 toyota mr2.

    https://car.social

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    RTV high temp copper silicone sealant will solve that leaky rear o ring and any other boost leaks you might have.
    the basic go fast bits...
    forged short block, Billet DR1000's, 680cc injectors, meth inj, FMIC, MAFT, Apexi Neo, hotwired 255lph fuel pump.

    Tuned by Ray Pampena

    Just a fun Daily Driver.

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    Heres an easy fix for your leaking o-ring issue.

    Take out the pipes to the rear turbo and plug all the holes in the turbo. Take a hacksaw or small handsaw and cut off the ear that the pipe bolts to (make you cut far enough out so its can stay round).Once you've cut that offtake a hand file and round out the small pieces that are still sticking out until it feels nice and round. Then take the pipe that goes in there and cut it off just after the weld so you have a smooth straight 2'' pipe, then bead roll that end.

    Now you just need a 2'' coupler and 2 t-bolts, its a bit of a stretch to get the 2'' coupler on there but it holds it on nicely, then just reassemble it all.

    Heres a pic of mine its a little messy right now from test fitting parts.

    -Ricer Evo 8: 8.75 @ 166 Best MPH of 167. Quickest 4G63 Powered Evo in The US!!!
    -Chris Cessna's Stock short block Evo 8: 9.76@150 Worlds Fastest Stock Motor Evo 8 and First Stock Block In The 9's!
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    -Mike Faggiano Evo3 16g stock motor 1g 11.0@124 just a 16g knockin on 10's door.
    And the list goes on...

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    Both good options. I'm not going to cut them and use a coupler. It'd work well on stock pipes, but the PMP rear turbo pipe is all... stupid. It has this huge obnoxious groove to hold the o ring, and it applies no pressure on the o ring against the wall. Someone suggested putting the o ring in first, then tightening down the pipe onto the O ring. I might give that a try.

    ... plus some RTV if that doesn't work.

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    wow, I haven't bumped this in a long time. The bumper is just about finished, I'm just filling in the gouges in the bottom from 20 years of abuse. I'm seriously considering having fiberglass reproductions professionally made. Let me know if anyone is interested!

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    In for final pics
    July 2014 COTM
    We follow the earth. The earth follows the stars. The stars know their way and though the body dies. The stars will remain, like the waves of the sea and restless slate.

  10. #10
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    I started a new thread in my sponsors section but I'll put the info here too -

    The problem – 1g Owners cutting up their bumper to fit a front mount
    The solution – the revised OE bumper from Lat 42.
    Don’t think of it as an aftermarket bumper, think of it as an improved original.

    Key information:
    Looks and fits like an original piece – factory height, keep your AA, body lines match. Keep your original turn signals. They’re recessed like stock, but the indent is shallower for a sleeker look.
    -Improved cooling to your FMIC and/or radiator
    -No mustache or mitsu emblem
    -Must cut middle of crash bar, but no need to modify headlight buckets
    -saves some weight

    possible add ons
    Shroud to improve air flow to FMIC
    fog light inserts with ducting

    (excuse the mismatched headlights, my car hasn't decided if it wants a flipup conversion or fixed lights)







    I originally wanted to do ABS plastic, but headlight sales are slow and it’s not feasible. I’m looking into doing a flexible FRP reproduction. I’d need to get 3-5 COMMITED BUYERS that are willing to pay up front and wait a couple months for the reproductions to be made and shipped out.

    Pricing – between $300 and $400 depending on the number of committed buyers. I’m also willing to offer discounts to people who buy a bumper/headlight combo. So let's make it happen!

    Thanks,

    Kurt S.
    Latitude 42 Motorsports

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