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Thread: Opened up my gearbox after hardcore road racing on 800ft/lb tq engine.

  1. #31
    VR-3747 :D Not Verified
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    J, you gotta quit typing in black, I can't read it!!
    rise and rise again until lambs become lions

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    Quote Originally Posted by futurevr4man View Post
    J, you gotta quit typing in black, I can't read it!!
    Highlight the text!

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    or go to the very bottom left of the page and select "light GTO" style from the drop down box.

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    Quote Originally Posted by futurevr4man View Post
    J, you gotta quit typing in black, I can't read it!!
    Reading is for rich people and totally overrated.
    Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
    Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts

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    Functioning as intended.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RealMcCoy View Post
    I really don't think heat or lubrication is much of a factor... They are supposed to be a press fit, and not move at all. I think because of the spiral wound design, with very thin material, they are flexing and getting work hardened under heavy use.

    The repair I proposed above is very effective... I don't remember what brand or model trans I saw it done from the factory on, but it certainly made an impression when I attempted to disassemble it...

    I grabbed an old 5 speed fork today and took some pics for a demonstration of what I'm talking about.

    First the factory spiral wound pin. You'll want to drive it out:



    Then enlarge the hole to 1/4":



    Then install the 1/4" single wrap spring steel roll pin:



    Then install a 5/32" pin inside that one:



    You'll notice how the 5/32" pin is mushroomed after install.... That's because I had to beat the crap out of it to get it in. Obviously a press would be a better install tool, but I was simply trying to perform a demonstration.

    This thing is not going anywhere... Ever... Just for giggles, I tried to take it back out. I broke my punch...
    I know this is an old thread, but I have a box here that the roll pins have backed out of. When I install them I use loctite, but I'm not sure if that is enough for ones that have tried to walk out already. I'm thinking of taking this approach and wondering what you thought:

    https://www.jackstransmissions.com/p...pra-v160-forks

    Parting 6 speed
    Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace

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    Did some research and the issue is finding the right size bolt. 1/4" leaves only .010" thread engagement, the hole is too big already. 5/6 or 8MM seems big enough to compromise the strength of the fork, so I'm not sure there is a solution. There exists such a thing as a 7mm bolt, but it is hard to come by, especially in high strength.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    Did some research and the issue is finding the right size bolt. 1/4" leaves only .010" thread engagement, the hole is too big already. 5/6 or 8MM seems big enough to compromise the strength of the fork, so I'm not sure there is a solution. There exists such a thing as a 7mm bolt, but it is hard to come by, especially in high strength.
    What thread pitch?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2fnloud View Post
    What thread pitch?
    1/4" neither fine or course has enough thread engagement

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    I thought you wanted M7 bolts?

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