Page 41 of 55 FirstFirst ... 31394041424351 ... LastLast
Results 401 to 410 of 544

Thread: Tuning my DR750s on Chrome

  1. #401
    VR-3747 :D Not Verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2008

    Location
    Dayton Ohio
    Posts
    1,792
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks
    19
    Thanked 123 Times in 86 Posts
    I was considering editing that part out, but I didn't. I was just kind of kicking ideas around, but I agree with what you said. My point in my statement was more about a bearing having more force on a generalized area for longer, which I still think causes a lot of issues. When oiling issues occur its usually the rod bearings that go, when excessive force (usually caused by knock) happens... Usually the mains. And I know you know that, I'm just thinking out loud again. I could give a few examples of people on here that have killed engines at low rpm and no knock. People like to blame oiling issues, but its a much more complicated answer than that if you ask me. Bearing surface area, harmonics, etc come into play... Especially with a v6.
    rise and rise again until lambs become lions

  2. #402
    Forum User
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Owner Since
    2009

    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    99
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    I'm not sure I have seen one 3.5 16G car running e85 and was ironed out.
    Cant remember exactly what the numbers were when Ray sold his chameleon car and the customer wanted 16gs on his stroker, but I thought it made 750tq on e85.

  3. #403
    Forum User Not Verified

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2004

    Location
    Cape Girardeau
    Posts
    4,791
    Thanks
    365
    Thanked 296 Times in 214 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by jras312 View Post
    Cant remember exactly what the numbers were when Ray sold his chameleon car and the customer wanted 16gs on his stroker, but I thought it made 750tq on e85.
    yeah that is the only one I've seen and it had some pretty amazing results. Looks like it started spooling hard around 3000 and was making peak torque near 4000.

    Parting 6 speed
    Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace

  4. #404
    VR-3747 :D Not Verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2008

    Location
    Dayton Ohio
    Posts
    1,792
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks
    19
    Thanked 123 Times in 86 Posts
    Jrink had a 3.5 16g car as well I believe. Made similar power as well with very fast spool

  5. #405
    Have you considered DR700 turbos? Aren't they similiar to the dr750's they just spool a little slower/later?

    Built motor, DR750s, AEM and Meth
    http://www.802projects.com

  6. #406
    One fix at a time verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2004

    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    2,158
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks
    60
    Thanked 57 Times in 49 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by jras312 View Post
    Cant remember exactly what the numbers were when Ray sold his chameleon car and the customer wanted 16gs on his stroker, but I thought it made 750tq on e85.
    The numbers are at the end of the video 665AWHP 748AWTQ I posted a few pages ago but here it is again. 3.5L, E16Gs, E85, and Ray's tune.

    95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.

  7. #407
    I don't bite
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2001

    Location
    Southern IN
    Posts
    1,996
    Thanks
    59
    Thanked 98 Times in 80 Posts

    Tuning my DR750s on Chrome

    Ray said wastegates were blowing open and not holding much to redline. Better wastegates or shimmed may help up top but may not if comp wheel was simply out of flow.

    Just for reference, Jesse made 688hp (can't remember tq) on race/meth on 6g74; Chris made 715 on e95, 3.0.
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

  8. #408
    Forum User Not Verified

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2004

    Location
    Cape Girardeau
    Posts
    4,791
    Thanks
    365
    Thanked 296 Times in 214 Posts
    well 750s it is. The TD05 kit sold, probably for the best for me.

  9. #409
    Forum User Not Verified

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2004

    Location
    Cape Girardeau
    Posts
    4,791
    Thanks
    365
    Thanked 296 Times in 214 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by fastfalcon94 View Post
    Have you considered DR700 turbos? Aren't they similiar to the dr750's they just spool a little slower/later?
    Those may be a good fit, but the higher flowing turbine I have would be better.

    Plus if I changed from these DR750s to ANYTHING else it would be a larger frame turbo of some sort. Given the engine build I can really not afford to do any worthwhile upgrades right now, such as a large DR kit and being honest I really am not going to need more than 600AWHP ever.

  10. #410
    Forum User Not Verified

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2004

    Location
    Cape Girardeau
    Posts
    4,791
    Thanks
    365
    Thanked 296 Times in 214 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by HLxDrummer View Post
    Haven't been following the entire thread but if your worried about power down low, can't you:
    A) Don't go WOT until higher RPM (I do this with 9Bs or I'll get knock at low RPM/high load). If you want to go fast, downshift. I'm sure you can pull a hill as you would in a normal car in a normal gear without killing the engine
    B) Pull timing
    C) Adjust your boost controller to give you less boost at low RPM

    Either way, good luck! It must be hard having to put all this work into your new car/build!
    Thank you for contributing, don't take what I have to respond negatively.

    a)if I want to do this I may as well get "laggy" turbos.
    b)yes, it is already in the worlds. I will be running significantly less timing than the base timing tune and will pay particular attention to knock voltage at low rpm. I'm probably going to also start my 3rd gear "pulls" for tuning purposes around 3500 until it is really close to avoid unnecessarily beating on the engine. In real life it isn't going to spend that much time wot at 3000 in 3rd.
    c)This is possible, but kinda leads to A.

    Going to play it carefully, but at some point I gotta have faith in ray's engine. Surely an engine running 1000AWHP at 6000 rpm is going to be at least as stressed as one making 500 torque at 3500.

    I really have a feeling my mains were half smashed in the old motor before I started tuning it.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
The 3000GT/Stealth/GTO Web History Project
3000gt.com
3000GT / Stealth International WWWboard Archive
Jim's (RED3KGT) Reststop
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Information and Resources
Team 3S
3000GT / Stealth / GTO Information
daveblack.net
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Clubs and Groups
Michigan 3S
MInnesota 3S
Wisconsin 3S
Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas 3S
North California 3000GT/Stealth
United Society of 3S Owners
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Forums
3000GT/Stealth International
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Event Pages
3S National Gathering
East Coast Gathering
Upper Mid-West Gathering
Blue Ridge Gathering