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Thread: Tuning my DR750s on Chrome

  1. #291
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    Another thing we don't want to forget, is just how much fuel volume is being shoved in the cylinder if you run it that rich... 10.0 on the wideband gauge is actually in the mid 6's by mass...

    Do that on a methanol motor and you'd probably hydraulic it when it misfired... (you'd be in the low 4's by mass)

    Edit: And before some internet expert jumps all over it(again), yes, I know the correct term is "hydro-lock"... I've be using that slang term for 30 years, and it's not likely I'll stop any time soon..
    Last edited by RealMcCoy; 06-30-2013 at 12:19 PM.


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    If a hydro lock situation caused this, the rod should also be bent. I would check all the rods for straightness.
    This is out of a 4g63 running a 16g on e85, well below the 750whp these stock parts have been proven to handle. Possible misfire hydro lock situation. Pistons were in mint condition, and no plug spatter.

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    I never meant to imply that this failure was hydrolock... We're pretty sure from his initial inspection that the rods aren't bent. I was just pointing out that strange things can happen when you are involving such a high ratio of fuel mass.

    I'm sure Ray will come up with a viable theory soon... It will be interesting to see what he has to say on this one.

  4. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by RealMcCoy View Post
    I'm sure Ray will come up with a viable theory soon...
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    Lol

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    ok, I think we have solved the sodium and silicon mystery. I talked with some very helpful reps at blackstone:

    " Hi, Chris. Thanks for the update. RTV is a silicone-based sealer, so that
    > could account for the silicon level, although we don't think that has
    > anything to do with the sodium. That's not something we normally see with
    > RTV sealers -- it's either coolant contamination, or possibly a residual
    > additive from a previously used type of oil (it's not used in Mobil 1).
    >
    > If the silicon is from the RTV, we'd expect the silicon level to drop with
    > each oil change after the pan was replaced until it gets back down to a
    > normal level. Watching the trends of silicon and sodium would tell us if
    > these were coming from coolant or some other source.
    >
    > Hope that helps. Let me know if there's anything else we can do for you.
    > Thanks!

    Thanks" - Blackstone Rep

    "The car ran on Valvoline before I purchased it. Does that contain sodium?" = Me

    "Hi, Chris. Yep, Valvoline does use sodium in most of their formulations -- usually anywhere from 250-350 ppm of it. So if this was just the second or third oil change on Mobil 1, this level of sodium could still be residual. It takes a few oil changes for it to go away completely, since up to 10%-20% of the old oil can remain in the engine when the oil is changed.

    Thanks!" - blackstone rep

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    I didn't know that!! Thanks for the info.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg E View Post
    I didn't know that!! Thanks for the info.
    I had no idea also, it just hit me that I had a huge stack of valvoline receipts with the car and some quick research indicated they may contain sodium, so I double checked with blackstone.

    As far as updates, my oil pump, gaskets, and etc came in from cherry hill today. Just waiting on one feedline that was back-ordered from them. Decided to go with a new headbolt set just in case as well.

    I also ordered a new HKS DLI to be safe. I'm going to test the coil packs a little later, but I'm strongly considering replacing those as well.

    What about the cam and crank sensors? They look "ok" and the wires aren't frayed or anything. It seems by their nature they would not be a wear item, but anyone have other opinions? I don't want to replace things needlessly, but it is a lot easier to start with 100% known good components to make sure things go smoothly.

    Then again I do not have infinite money!

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    I'm still holding strong to my theory that a stock motor just flat out can't handle the torque produced from such a quick spooling turbo. I don't see any reason to go replacing stuff which you know already works.

    Cam and CAS haul sensors don't even touch. It's just a blade that passes thru a magnetic field and nothing more. It's a sensor that either works or doesn't. Like being pregnant.

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    No indication from any of your logs of other issues?

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