Tuning my DR750s on Chrome

[Greg E]

uShip - The Online Shipping Marketplace - Ship Freight, Furniture, Cars or Moves

[fastfalcon94]

That really sucks about your engine. There have been quite a few stock ones blown up trying to hit big power on the dr750s. I'm very curious what the failure diagnosis. I'm running 25psi with meth on mine (not even a sign of knock) and hesitant to push it further right now. I'm worried that there is a small grey area where the meth is causing the engine not to register knock, but still putting extra stress on the bearings. You were running a stock ecu with stock timing map too. I would say it would be worse with aggressive timing or a piggyback system. Maybe it was just a lifetime of wear and tear. Are you going to continue running the same oil? It looks like the 10w40 is rated well on forced performances oil analysis guide. (http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf)


I shipped my tranny to Ray. I just used a big cardboard box and some expanding foam. Cut up some extra cardboard to fit in the bottom of the box. Then criss-cross some expanding foam and add a piece of cardboard on top. Do that 4-5 times and when it hardens you will have a 4-5" thick foam/cardboard bottom. Do the same thing to the sides but only use 3 layers of cardboard. Then put a plastic bag around the tranny and set it in the bottom of the box. Fill any voids with smaller pieces of cardboard cut up/folded and/or any thick foam packaging. I used my friends work to ship my tranny. Fedex wanted over $250 one way because it exceeded 150 pounds. My friends work cost me a little over $80 each way.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

uShip - The Online Shipping Marketplace - Ship Freight, Furniture, Cars or Moves

Thanks for the links guys, I will try them. We agree the longblock is 500 lbs?

At the rate things are coming apart I'll have it out by Monday.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

That really sucks about your engine. There have been quite a few stock ones blown up trying to hit big power on the dr750s. I'm very curious what the failure diagnosis. I'm running 25psi with meth on mine (not even a sign of knock) and hesitant to push it further right now. I'm worried that there is a small grey area where the meth is causing the engine not to register knock, but still putting extra stress on the bearings. You were running a stock ecu with stock timing map too. I would say it would be worse with aggressive timing or a piggyback system. Maybe it was just a lifetime of wear and tear. Are you going to continue running the same oil? It looks like the 10w40 is rated well on forced performances oil analysis guide. (http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf)


I shipped my tranny to Ray. I just used a big cardboard box and some expanding foam. Cut up some extra cardboard to fit in the bottom of the box. Then criss-cross some expanding foam and add a piece of cardboard on top. Do that 4-5 times and when it hardens you will have a 4-5" thick foam/cardboard bottom. Do the same thing to the sides but only use 3 layers of cardboard. Then put a plastic bag around the tranny and set it in the bottom of the box. Fill any voids with smaller pieces of cardboard cut up/folded and/or any thick foam packaging. I used my friends work to ship my tranny. Fedex wanted over $250 one way because it exceeded 150 pounds. My friends work cost me a little over $80 each way.

I certainly would not push harder than you are and after going through this I would personally dial it back until you can build the engine.

I was only running the off the shelf mobil 1 10w40, not any racing series oil. I'm going to grab a sample of the oil to send to blackstone to see if anything other than particulates in it are bad and ray is going to do a failure analysis as well. If the oil was broken down I'll go to something better.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

The trick for shipping transmissions is to put them in the biggest box the ups store sells. Then build support structure inside using more cardboard. Then wrap the transmission in shrink wrap, wrap it in that foam packaging stuff, rewrap in shrink wrap. Put in box, stuff more cardboard in gaps.

I shipped one for 155$ fully insured for 2500$ that way.

the six speed is over the weigh limit. the 5 can be shipped that way

[RealMcCoy]

We agree the longblock is 500 lbs?

Whatever you do when shipping freight, DO NOT under any circumstances underestimate the weight... Shipping is a cutthroat business, and if they think you're overweight they'll sideline your shipment for review. It adds days to the shipping time, and they rape you in fees, on top of adding the additional cost of whatever the weight difference is...

[sergechronos]

Whatever you do when shipping freight, DO NOT under any circumstances underestimate the weight... Shipping is a cutthroat business, and if they think you're overweight they'll sideline your shipment for review. It adds days to the shipping time, and they rape you in fees, on top of adding the additional cost of whatever the weight difference is...

What he said.

It is in your best interest (if possible) to find a freight terminal near you and take them the long block to weigh on a pallet. They generally won't charge you for it, and worst case you give the guy 10 bucks for it, or drastically overestimate the weight unless someone here knows it for a fact. I know the 1g long block and tranny combo weighs in at around 685, and the engine block weighs 150, the trans has a weight of..110 I think. But it's speculation.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

I think I'll just grab a couple of cheap scales, lay the pallet on them and lower the engine down, then add the weight up. If it works for corner weighting a car it should work for me.

I can't see it being over 500 though. The cams, lower intake, headers, turbos, and all the timing crap will be off. basically just heads, block, crank, pistons and rods. The heads are around 60-70 iirc. I know the block is about 150. The crank is about 50. The pistons and rods are probably about 10.

Really it may come in around 350 lbs.

Hellaflush came by last night to give me a hand and we got the radiator, downpipe, drivers axle, starter wiring, and most of the stuff to get the passenger axle out already.

Just need to pull the pass axle out, take off the t-case, finish removing wires up top, take out the trans mount, loosen the other mounts, unhook the heater hoses, take the slave cylinder off the trans, pull the battery tray out, remove the a/c compressor, and the ps pump and that is about it. Hopefully have it on a stand by Monday.

I sure hate antifreeze dripping on my constantly. Once you pull the radiator and throttle body hoses these things seem to leak everywhere for a while.

[HilbillyHomeboy]

Heads with cams and gears are over 70. I know this because UPS destroyed a set I bought many years ago. Driver told me "Never ship an 'over 70' with us, it'll get broke every time".

No need for 18 posts after this describing what you've shipped with UPS that was 'over 70' and didn't get broke. I'm just relaying advice that came from a driver.

Jeremy

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Heads with cams and gears are over 70. I know this because UPS destroyed a set I bought many years ago. Driver told me "Never ship an 'over 70' with us, it'll get broke every time".

No need for 18 posts after this describing what you've shipped with UPS that was 'over 70' and didn't get broke. I'm just relaying advice that came from a driver.

Jeremy

That sounds about right. I think I shipped a set of cams to turbosincebirth and it was 60 with no cams. The cams and gears might as well stay here. Although I was thinking of tracking down a set of 1st gen ones for a little more power.