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Thread: Breaking in new clutch and flywheel with new motor

  1. #1
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    Breaking in new clutch and flywheel with new motor

    Had a question for the gurus on here. Rebuilding my motor and it should be done here in the next week or so once these last few parts trickle in. With this rebuild, I also had to replace my flywheel and clutch as both were worn well beyond factory specifications. The prevailing school of thought to break the motor in is to let it reach operating temperature, change the oil. Then do 20-50 miles of 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear pulls and use the tranny to decel for vacuum to help seat rings as well.

    However, I've also heard for breaking in a clutch/flywheel that you don't want to engine brake it. Not sure what the logic is as the synchros should handle most of the abuse of that, but looking for input as to what the steps are for breaking in a new engine, flywheel and clutch all at once.
    Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
    Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts

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    For breaking in the engine you definitely don't want constant rpms cruising for a long time. For breaking in the clutch don't go driving it on the highway to rack up the miles. You need plenty of stop and go city driving for the clutch.
    95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.

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    Engine braking doesn't abuse the clutch at all, assuming you're rev-matching your downshifts. Engine braking is also good for engine break in because it pulls a hard vacuum and helps seat the rings.
    R135
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