Results 1 to 10 of 18

Thread: ABS Delete

Threaded View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    94 3500gt vr2? verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2007

    Location
    NC
    Posts
    1,074
    Blog Entries
    4
    Thanks
    103
    Thanked 29 Times in 17 Posts

    ABS Delete

    So I did my ABS delete this weekend. Was a little harder than I expected, but manageable even with the engine still in the car. I used the STM kit to make this job easier. I had a few things I wasn't sure about and had a hard time finding the answers, so thought I'd make a thread to help people in the future. The OEM ABS delete kit is significantly cheaper, but I probably wouldn't try it with the engine still in the car. $200 for custom kit from STM, $125 for oem kit from ninjaperformance (believe this is the best price you'll find for a kit with new parts). If I had the engine out of the car, I would have most likely gone with the oem kit.

    The STM kit comes with a non-abs prop valve, 4 braided ss lines and some fittings/adapters.
    This kit eliminates all of the mess of hardlines under the hood except for the 2 feeds to the rear.
    It also eliminates the extra segments in the wheel well. Both front calipers will be fed with a line straight from the prop valve to the caliper.

    So far, I like the kit. It's simple and it works. It's not easy to get everything lined up perfectly and there's probably a little room for improvement. At first I didn't like the idea of losing junctions in the wheelwell. For one fitment is tricky and I feel like it needs to be secured better. Also if the end gets damaged at the caliper, you have to replace that whole line all the way to the prop valve. And it just doesn't have a very oem look to it. But simplicity is the real winning factor here, and I think I can live with that

    Tools Needed:
    10, 12mm wrenches
    10, 12mm sockets and ratchet
    4" extension for some of the bolts on firewall
    18" or two 9" extensions for modulator
    10mm flare wrench or crows foot recommended
    Phillips screwdriver
    Pliers
    Something to cut lines with once patience is gone (bolt cutters, lineman pliers)
    10, 11, 12, 13mm wrenches and or flare wrenches (for STM kit)

    Other supplies:
    Lubricant (I prefer acetone/atf mix)
    Insulated wire clips (or reuse old ones)


    New non-abs prop valve
    IMG_20130511_STM_PropValve.jpg

    Forgot to take pics of the lines before installing. Not sure if I'm allowed, but here's a pic from their site.


    Compared to old abs-prop valve
    IMG_20130511_ABS_PropValve.jpg

    Clutter of lines before. You can skip the harness dissection step, lol. That's another ongoing project.
    IMG_20130511_SideWallBefore.jpg
    Last edited by n2nsanity; 05-14-2013 at 12:25 AM.
    __________________________________________________


Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
The 3000GT/Stealth/GTO Web History Project
3000gt.com
3000GT / Stealth International WWWboard Archive
Jim's (RED3KGT) Reststop
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Information and Resources
Team 3S
3000GT / Stealth / GTO Information
daveblack.net
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Clubs and Groups
Michigan 3S
MInnesota 3S
Wisconsin 3S
Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas 3S
North California 3000GT/Stealth
United Society of 3S Owners
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Forums
3000GT/Stealth International
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Event Pages
3S National Gathering
East Coast Gathering
Upper Mid-West Gathering
Blue Ridge Gathering