ABS Delete

[fastfalcon94]

I did my abs delete about 1-2 months ago. I managed to use oem lines though with the engine in. It wasn't too bad except you need to remove the steering column (just enough to pull the linkage from the steering rack) so you can slide a brake line behind it, and the brake booster needs to come out. I didn't swap the master cylinder to the non-abs one. I don't know what the difference but they do have different part numbers. My brakes work just fine. I didn't have to remove my heater core hoses, throttle body, or intake manifold but I can see how it would have made it a little easier to get to the prop valve.

[Bloodlust182]

I used the STM kit and I like it a lot, pedal feels nice and tight. Ive been running it for 10-15k miles now and the lines are fine just looped through the 1 bracket in the wheel wells. Another thing that is great about the kit is you can disconnect the master cylinder from the brake booster and leave the lines connected so you would not have to bleed the system if you need to get to your clutch master cylinder.

[beepbeep]

Well done, Eddie!

[b3nickerson]

So the STM kit will definitely work on a stock SL?

[n2nsanity]

It will work on any 3/s with ABS.

STM is the easiest kit to install with the engine in the car. Removing the stock lines isn't too bad if you cut them. If you try to remove them without damaging them, it is pretty difficult.

If you have the engine out, I'd recommend the OEM ABS delete kit. Cost is almost cut in half and keeps the car more original. Also, everything lines up perfectly and there are sufficient brackets to hold everything in place. If engine is out of the car, I'd probably go this route.

[Granny]

Thanks for the write up!

[n2nsanity]

No prob. I feel I still need to tweak it and add a few more details and pics. I technically still haven't finished the job, lol. Still need to bleed the brakes and check for leaks. I started my tt conversion the same weekend, so it's been chaos ever since.

[jba3]

I don't think anyone would try any other way, but it's important that you connect the front wheels to the port facing them.
This allows the distributed braking pressure in case one of the lines fail. Front Right and Rear Left are on half the valve. Right Front and Rear Right are on the other half.

Should be:

Front Right and Rear Left,
Front Left and Rear Right

not

Front Right and Rear Left,
Right Front and Rear Right

Other than that, great writeup!

No prob. I feel I still need to tweak it and add a few more details and pics. I technically still haven't finished the job, lol. Still need to bleed the brakes and check for leaks. I started my tt conversion the same weekend, so it's been chaos ever since.

Did you get this finished? How is it? Car is partially apart but still has motor, and I may be selling it, but I'm curious since it's convenient now.