Best of luck with a successful start up!
If it has set for that long, I would personally recommended a coolant flush. Coolant has additives that prevent corrosion and after so long they wear away. I used prestone super flush when I redid my heads and it helped transition to a cooling system bleed. Also I used a Lisle coolant bleeding funnel. Good luck and definitely update us! http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001A4EAV0
Last edited by EvanH; 04-25-2013 at 09:24 PM.
Well, I pulled the ignition wires and hooked the starter up and turned the key... One solid click and then nothing. I might be able to hear the starter spin for a second but it definitely doesn't engage the flywheel. Things to check are the starter relay, the starter solenoid wiring, and possibly pull the inspection plate to see if its spinning.
Wish me luck
OK, did some more diagnosing over the weekend. Definitely a starter relay problem. I wired in the click click start solution before trying to crank it and it seems to be giving me some problems. I've got to check my relays and then see if it could be anything else.
the click click start fix doesnt always work if the wires as just degraded. I actually had to run all new wires. Test by jumping the starterwith a screw driver to see if it turns over.
Or hook up a remote starter switch with one lead on the battery lug on the starter and the other on the solenoid terminal. This will eliminate all problems except battery, positive wire to starter and bad battery ground, same as screwdriver test. Remote starter is good for priming since it lets you crank engine without spark or fuel and lets you move around and check for leaks/etc.
I pulled the relay and tested it with a multimeter. I'm pretty certain it tested bad. Ordered a new one from rock auto. Well see what happens
OK! I got the car to crank on demand now! I had to put a jumper in the stock relay loaction and just rely on the single relay i wired in to fix the clikc click start.
Now I'm on to figuring out my fuel pressure, there is none. I'm at work now but tomorrow I want to try and set the fuel pressure regulator set screw in a bit deeper and see if that does it.
While I'm at work tonight I'm going to get into the tune on the standalone I have to see if it was set up to prime the fuel pump or not. I'm thinking that the tune might be set up for a hotwired pump so there is no point for the computer to turn it on.
Any other ideas for fuel?
Oh, also forgot to ask if the oil pressure dummy light is supposed to go off during cranking or if it won't go off until it start?
I don't know if I have sufficient oil pressure![]()
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