Glad it worked out. Maybe this thread will help others in the future with all of your trials and tribulations.
Glad it worked out. Maybe this thread will help others in the future with all of your trials and tribulations.
[06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM
Your and everyone else's help was greatly appreciated. I took a bunch of pics and even a couple vids. I'll be sure to add them to help the next.
2013 January Car of the Month - All 3s
2011 November Car of the Month - Interior
If my links/photos don't work replace penguinhosting.net/~bigmac with primaryboost.com
Uncut 3000GT keys for sale! Various colors!
Yes, but that's a band-aid for other issues; there is more than enough mechanical throw to work with in a fully functioning pedal and hydraulic system. The 1G DSM pedal assemblies develop slop over time, exacerbated by heavier PP clutches, which reduces the amount of effective mechanical travel that can act on the master. It's easier to just use shims, etc.. but that's just a half-assed workaround. I've been through the pedal rebuild process with my former DSM and is a major PITA to R&R..!
That said, I'm glad OP has found a solution... But..! You really should NOT ever have to employ shims, etc.. to get any off the shelf single-disk clutch to disengage.
1993.5 Supra TT 6sp Hardtop -- old school 74MM setup: 10.4 @ 138MPH 1/2 mile - 166MPH - new setup #'s soon! [Previously 468WHP & 11.3 @ 125MPH stock twins]
1994 Supra TT 6sp -- 11.8 @ 118MPH basic BPU
1999 3000GT VR-4 -- 12.5 @ 108MPH 100% stock w/ Chromed ECU tune
2003 Denali XL -- Grocery Getter & Tow Rig -- Runs 13's! (mpg)
Formerly:
1994 Supra 6sp - 72mm, VPC, stock longblock -- 722WHP & 10.36 @ 139.5MPH
1993 Stealth RT/TT; 2003 Corvette Z06; 1997 3000GT VR-4; 2002 Corvette Z06;
1999 3000GT; 1992 Stealth RT/TT; 1993.5 Supra TT; 1993 3000GT; 1992 3000GT VR-4;
1998 Trans AM WS6; 1992 Talon TSi; 1993 3000GT VR-4; and many others..
Well...turns out...I am pulling the clutch after all. Put on 500+ break in miles(shifting miles not all highway) and tried to lay down some power. Clutch slips in 3rd at WOT. Not sure if it's from the issues up front or that both issues were caused by defects. We'll see after I get it apart.
I still have to choose a stage 3 clutch for my build and I was considering SB OFE but maybe not so much now. I think I'll be around 400-450 WHP so what clutch would you guys get?
I certainly wouldn't base your decision solely on me. It could have easily been my or rps flywheel's fault. Won't know for sure until I pull it apart.
Great thread. Ive always had synchro problems and my new trans is notchier than id like. I had no idea that bolt under the dash could come loose... my low mileage decade old master may be leaking... this thread will be useful for me. Thanks!
'93 VR4 | 10.57 @ 135 on C16 | 11.29 @ 125 on 93 | ~3275 lbs
No complaints with my super cheap xtd at 500awtq so far and a couple street launches. My stage 4 unsprung 6 puck is overkill for 400whp bit I'd look at their other options.
Honestly can't believe it has held for how cheap they are. Going to keep running it until I find the limit.
1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.
Well, RPS screwed up my step height. I guess I should have measured it instead of trusting them. I measured .840 to .845. The majority of the threads on 3si and 3sgto mention a .827 step height. Bah what a pain. Question is do I now need a new clutch disc? Can I just machine the RPS posts? What is the affect of a slipping clutch are all the surfaces screwed up? How would this affect my hydraulic system/pedal height? Was this is source of my pedal issues right from the start?
Certainly learned my lesson here about double checking...
That would explain the dragging clutch and why the pedal felt funny. Shitty job by RPS...
R135
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