New clutch, have some issues.

[Primus101]

Damn thought that was it- Have you deleted your vacuum reserve tank?

[sublime_whatigo]

The dsm guys do that because of all the slop in the clutch pedal assembly from putting in to heavy of a clutch.

Toni, i think either your master is bad or possibly the clutch fork is bent or not installed properly, dont forget to check the fulcrum.

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[stealthee]

I am still betting he needs to properly adjust his pedal travel with the "constantly changing" pedal feel and the fact that he is adjusted all the way out.

Adjust the pedal per pedal free play. It's quick and easy to do.

[sublime_whatigo]

It sounded like he did, can't hurt to try again. If its adjusted all the way and the slave compresses yet it sounds like another issue.

[Toni]

Alright. Adjusted the rod further down (less tob travel) to get an idea of free play. Then adjusted until it was in spec. At the middle of the spec is right where I had it before, barely any threads in. So I adjusted it until there was really like 1-2 threads in, this put me at the low end of the spec. Clutch actually felt a little better here. I put a camera on the reservoir to see if anything was going on. I saw that the fluid rose just a bit then stopped. This actually matched up with the pedal free play. If I pushed it further, no fluid change. So that makes sense, fluid should rise until the valve seals shut then the cylinder goes to work. This also matches the fact I could still push the slave back and fluid would go back into the reservoir.

I checked the booster lines and it holds vacuum for a long time after shutdown. Pedal feels nice and easy when the car is on then when I shut it down it gets hard after a couple pushes. If I hold it just above the floor stop with the car off then start then I can feel the assist kick in. I don't have the vacuum tank any longer, line is capped. Never had it.

Nothing looks bent or out of the ordinary under the dash. The fork and fulcrum have about 10k miles on them as I replaced them during the last rebuild. Install is pretty straight forward I would imagine hard to screw up especially doing it like the 4th time overall.

The fact that I can't even get the free play to 0 with the rod all the way seems to tell me something is funny in the pedal/boost/master area. Obviously could be wrong about that.

[sublime_whatigo]

What clutch? Flywheel 2-stepped and double checked for spec? Also unclear, did you go with an oem master? I've had loads of problems with aftermarket master cylinders, oem rebuild kits are cheap.

[Toni]

southbend stage 3 endurance. Flywheel is an RPS lightweight and I had the pads replaced. I have had that done before with no issue. Not doubled checked for spec... During install I scraped and cleaned all tranny, engine, flywheel, etc before install. Replaced master was new oem. I ordered the rebuild kit today it was cheap enough to risk it not being the problem. Should be here by Friday.

[sublime_whatigo]

Sounds like your on the right track. Only other thing I could suggest is basics, make sure your trans bolts are tight and make sure your rubber clutch line doesn't have a tumor.

[Primus101]

Did you check that booster>MC rod measurement when you put the new MC on?

[Toni]

Sounds like your on the right track. Only other thing I could suggest is basics, make sure your trans bolts are tight and make sure your rubber clutch line doesn't have a tumor.

I torqued everything to spec so they are good to go. Checking for a tumor is a good idea, it's relatively new and doesn't show any signs of leak/distortion but doesn't mean it's not happening when the pedal is down.

Did you check that booster>MC rod measurement when you put the new MC on?

Honestly, I don't remember. I am guessing since I replaced it in the parking lot where it got stranded that I didn't lol.