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Thread: Inline 6 Vs V6 Discussion

  1. #21
    Now with more poop-smear Not Verified
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    Why revive this? V6 = better packaging. I6 = "better" performance. 'nuff said.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ilian51378 View Post
    I will need to remove the heads in order to replace those, won't I? I installed a rebuilt engine in my car and immediately noticed that the oil pressure was lower than before... Then I researched and discovered that it is rather typical for machine shops to remove those when skimming heads and they never get installed back after that. That is why a number of people observe a low oil pressure after rebuilding their heads... I am so upset that it drives me crazy! How bad is it to drive the car without the orifices and how long would it take before it csuses serious damage?
    Quote Originally Posted by donniekak View Post
    The blocks in these cars were originally developed as 150hp minivan engines. The center 2 mains each feed 2 rods, and a port for the a cylinder head. A real performance design has what's called priority main oiling, where the crank is fed first, and the cylinder heads afterward. The fact that Mitsubishi put such small restrictors in the galley to feed a 12 valve dohc cylinder head is proof they knew the oiling system was a problem. No wonder why the lifters tick. All the oil in the head has to pass through this.
    Where exactly are those. Is there a pic in the manual? I need to check to see that they were replaced as well. Unfortunatly I just reinstalled the engine...

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  3. #23
    I don't bite
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    Bottom side, between the right two cylinders. The spot that's leaking oil.
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

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  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by familyMAN View Post


    Bottom side, between the right two cylinders. The spot that's leaking oil.
    That's not an oil leak..That's sweat from all that horse power..
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  6. #25
    Well I'm a fan of the barra ford i6 we never got here in the us. 4.0 dohc fpv is 420hp @5500 420tq @2000. But that engine is 35" long

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    So, how bad is it to drive the car without the oil restrictors? Will my engine last less then with the restrictors? I am going to install them when I swap my pistons for low compression ones. I will also install new bearings, just in case. By the way, I am thinking about installing one of those multi-layered metal head gaskets, because people keep telling me they are better than the graphite ones. Is that true?
    '95 Mitsubishi GTO AWD ATX - '99 front end conversion, TT conversion (19Ts), Forced Four shift box with paddle shifters, A/A wing, LCDBC, 3" straight piped exhaust with no cats and gutted pre-cats, Custom rear diffuser, HIDs, Carbon fiber steering wheel, 18" Mustang Saleen replicas.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ilian51378 View Post
    So, how bad is it to drive the car without the oil restrictors? Will my engine last less then with the restrictors? I am going to install them when I swap my pistons for low compression ones. I will also install new bearings, just in case. By the way, I am thinking about installing one of those multi-layered metal head gaskets, because people keep telling me they are better than the graphite ones. Is that true?
    Without the restrictors more oil ends up in your head than it actually needs. I'm not sure on the long term ramifications of it, but I wouldn't want to drive it much like that.

    Yes you should go MLS on the head gaskets, go OEM MLS head gaskets and bolts. They've been proven to hold up better than just about anything else out there for us.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sergechronos View Post
    Without the restrictors more oil ends up in your head than it actually needs. I'm not sure on the long term ramifications of it, but I wouldn't want to drive it much like that.

    Yes you should go MLS on the head gaskets, go OEM MLS head gaskets and bolts. They've been proven to hold up better than just about anything else out there for us.
    I actually read that since more oil stays up in the heads, the bottom end is starved for oil and thus the life of the engine will probably be shortened... I can't understand how someone who is a mechanic would assemble a rebuilt engine and not make sure that the restrictors have been reinstalled... It happened twice with me. I had the heads rebuilt on my first 3/S and after I got the car back, I immediately noticed that the oil pressure was lower than before the rebuild. The same happened with my current 3/S, after I bought a rebuilt engine from a place that specializes in engine rebuilds... It makes me sick when I think about how I am expected to be perfect at my work place, but I don't get close to the same from other places when I am the customer.

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    Here is where I got the info about the oil restrictors from:

    Cylinder Head Oil Restrictor

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