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Thread: Recommend Me a Soldering Iron

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    Recommend Me a Soldering Iron

    Title says it, I don't know much about them at all but would like to use it for rebuilding the ECS computer and other general use projects on my VR4. I'm not a noob to soldering, just to what the good brands, power levels, tip sizes etc would be best for small electronics projects like this. I've already rebuilt my ECU and DCCD computers using someone else's iron, but I figure it's time I bought my own. I'd like to spend $50 or less if it's possible to get a quality iron in that range.

    Thank you,
    Caleb
    . 1992 VR4 - Java Black Pearl paint (2004 STI) with combo '92/'96/'99 custom front end .
    . Fittipaldi Force or 5Zigen FNO1-RC wheels . Cianci rear strut bar . K&N intake . DNP pre-turbo hard pipes . DNP hard intercooler pipe kit . Greddy Type RS BOV (recirc) . HKS EVC Black Limited boost controller . Vacuum reduction with all silicone pluming . EGR block off plates . Hot wired fuel pump . AEM AFPR @the rail with Robbeck adapter . Fuel rail loop . Tanabe knockoff down pipe . No cats . Single Turbo Flamer full 3" cat back . RPS Max pressure plate with street disk . Seattle92VR4 solid motor mounts . '99 Lifters . R1 Concepts slotted rotors . Supercar Engineering brake caliper stiffening bolts . HHH data logging . Red Line fluids .

  2. #2
    I'm Marcus
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    I'd like to spend $50 or less if it's possible to get a quality iron in that range
    You can get an Iron in that price range - it wont be very good.

    This is what I use to assemble the TechWorks ECS Controllers - best Iron I've owned, heats up very quickly -precise controls. They have a digital version too:

    http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888-FX...soldering+iron

    duke3k

    Favorite Car - A 1998 RED VR4 , pretty much stock except: Suspension: '94 ECS Struts Retrofit w/ Tein H-Techs controlled by TechWorks ECS Suspension Controller

    www.renegadetechworks.com Open Source 3000gt ECS Retrofit & Replacement Controllers

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    Quote Originally Posted by duke3k View Post
    You can get an Iron in that price range - it wont be very good.

    This is what I use to assemble the TechWorks ECS Controllers - best Iron I've owned, heats up very quickly -precise controls. They have a digital version too:

    http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888-FX...soldering+iron

    duke3k
    Good to know, I'm willing to spend a little more to get a quality iron - I'll probably use it very rarely, but when I do I want to do the job right. Since you're clearly knowledgeable I've got to ask - what temperature would you consider appropriate to provide a quality connection on one of these circuit boards? I could willy nilly heat it up so it melts solder and try not to burn the board but I know that temperature plays a part when it comes to a proper connection.

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    Quote Originally Posted by duke3k View Post
    You can get an Iron in that price range - it wont be very good.

    This is what I use to assemble the TechWorks ECS Controllers - best Iron I've owned, heats up very quickly -precise controls. They have a digital version too:

    http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888-FX...soldering+iron

    duke3k
    Good to know, I'm willing to spend a little more to get a quality iron - I'll probably use it very rarely, but when I do I want to do the job right. Since you're clearly knowledgeable I've got to ask - what temperature would you consider appropriate to provide a quality connection on one of these circuit boards? I could willy nilly heat it up so it melts solder and try not to burn the board but I know that temperature plays a part when it comes to a proper connection.

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    I'm Marcus
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    There's no one temperature that will work for all situations. The biggest consideration is what component you are soldering to to the board or to each other. For general wire to wire or wire to board - I will run my Hakko @ 450C. I will also solder at that temp if I'm soldering a passive component like a resistor that can take a fair amount of heat before its damaged. for more sensitive components I'll drop to 400 or 350C. The main thing is to be quick and efficient - don't let the soldering Iron just stand on the component and heat it completely up. You only need to get the junction hot enough to flow the solder - do your thing and then get the iron off the component as quick as you can.

    There's ton's of google articles on "how to solder" - here's a good one.

    http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...ood-soldering/

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    def depeds on what ur goign to use it for , we have irons like what is posted above for delicate operations but for me the only one i own is
    http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...ICROTORCH-KIT/
    can be had cheaper variations but their all pretty close to same quality this is just the one i own. love it but its mainly for wiring harness repairs in the field

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    def depeds on what ur goign to use it for , we have irons like what is posted above for delicate operations but for me the only one i own is
    http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...ICROTORCH-KIT/
    can be had cheaper variations but their all pretty close to same quality this is just the one i own. love it but its mainly for wiring harness repairs in the field

  9. #8
    I bought a Weller at Sears on sale for like 50 bucks. It's adjustable and it came with the stand and the sponge. I've used it a bunch for guitar wiring over the last couple years and it's treated me good.

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    Get a good soldering iron the first time. I didn't, because I didn't think I would actually use it that much. First one I bought was about $20. It got the job done, but it sucked, and eventually broke. Took forever to heat up too, and the tip heated unevenly. Replaced it with a $35 dual temp one. That worked a ton better in comparison, but still took forever to heat up and the tip and overall design made it difficult for precision. Finally got rid of it and got a decent one for $60 that performs how I want it to. I would have been much better off just sucking it up and spending the money in the first place for a good one.

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