Need Help ASAP: Fuel Pump Disaster

[Austin@STM]

Fucked as in not getting it fixed tonight and as in not a 5 minute fix. You got some time in front of you to fix it.

This.

[GRSHOPR]

OK, so I got the pump assembly out, and I assembled all the parts to fix this thing. One last hurdle, though. The hard line broke off almost right at the base of the top plate. There's maybe a quarter inch of it left to the outside. Should I drill through and tap into the hardline INSIDE the assembly?? It seems like that kind defeats the purpose of the weld. Thoughts or other work arounds?? Thanks again all for the help.

[Fakepower]

http://www.3si.org/wiki/index.php/Fu..._Pump_Assembly

I believe this is Lawdogs if i remember correct.

[terrets]

I had this happen with my Talon tsi....I had the next door mechanic weld cut the hardline right where it hits the assembly and then weld a new hardline there. With the studs, I dropped the tank and drilled new holes and put in new bolts with those washers that are all rigid and bumpy. They lock. Not sure what they are called. haha.

The assembly was sandblasted before welding. And Im not so sure I would suggest just welding a new hardline. I think the wiki method is better.

I learned my lesson, USE PB Blaster and be patient .

Or follow the wiki .

OK, so I got the pump assembly out, and I assembled all the parts to fix this thing. One last hurdle, though. The hard line broke off almost right at the base of the top plate. There's maybe a quarter inch of it left to the outside. Should I drill through and tap into the hardline INSIDE the assembly?? It seems like that kind defeats the purpose of the weld. Thoughts or other work arounds?? Thanks again all for the help.

Do not drill and tap the hardline. Not sure it will hold and this would reduce the size of the hole your fuel goes through . If anything, you could weld a bigger hardline that fits over this piece....Not sure if it would change the fitting size.

[terrets]

OK, so I got the pump assembly out, and I assembled all the parts to fix this thing. One last hurdle, though. The hard line broke off almost right at the base of the top plate. There's maybe a quarter inch of it left to the outside. Should I drill through and tap into the hardline INSIDE the assembly?? It seems like that kind defeats the purpose of the weld. Thoughts or other work arounds?? Thanks again all for the help.

Do not drill and tap the hardline. Not sure it will hold and this would reduce the size of the hole your fuel goes through .

[GRSHOPR]

I actually had about a foot of fuel injection line lying around, so I drilled the hardline out of the plate, cut it half an inch down, clamped it, and run the injection line out of the plate. I must say, I was flexing and trying to find any cracks between the line and plate, but that shit is TIGHT. It was a bitch to get in, it was so tight. Purposely of course. Between that, and some self tapping bolts, I think I'm going to be set. A bit redneck I'll admit, but I think it'll hold fine for a few weeks, til I can handle working on the car some more. If I had to do it now, I think I'd have the car towed to the boonies, bring 10 gallons of gas, light a match, and walk away. I think I may just keep the self tapping bolts anyways, since it seems to me that the studs were a stupid idea of Mitsubishi's to begin with. Can anyone find any fault with my plan?? It's all together, but I have to reattach a ground and the positive feed for the fuel pump (another thing that broke), which I'm too frigging tired to do. I'll check again tomorrow, before I start it up, in case someone has a valid point that results in my blowing up. Thanks for the help guys.

[stealthee]

If one thing is not right you could lose fuel pressure, go lean, and fry your engine. I wouldn't let it go a few weeks. I would get it fixed right ASAP.

[Austin@STM]

If you ran rubber line through a very tight hole in a steel plate, its not gonna last. Once the line get pressure it will expand, pushing out against the edge. That combined with all the normal vibration will wear through the line and you will have no pressure at all. If you leave it like this keep a close eye on it.

[GRSHOPR]

I definitely will not be leaving it like this. It was just something to get it going, very temporary. I'm having trouble with the positive terminal for the pump. Soldering isn't working. Any other suggestions for reattaching it?

[GRSHOPR]

OK, so the fastest, cheapest and easiest way that I'm seeing, would be getting a -6 AN bulkhead fitting, 2 -6 AN female to 3/8" barbed adapters, and a -6 AN nut, run that through the bulkhead, and connect the hose to the two barbs. Can anyone find any issues with that?