So his only ground was going to the body in the trunk? Wow
So his only ground was going to the body in the trunk? Wow
Yes, the shop that did the battery relocation made only 1 ground, battery to the bodypan right there at the battery box, and as you can see in the video, that wasn't even tight. Which was making everything in the car flicker. The AEM WB sensor took a dump, replaced the sensor and that came back to life.
-Chris
So what is the best way to ground the relocated battery? Run a heavy gauge ground wire up to the engine bay? Mine's grounded on the rear strut tower, good solid clean bolted connection, and so far I've never had a problem.
Interesting to hear how common battery relocation related problems seem to be.
I moved my battery to a custom enclosure behind the rear seats and connected the ground cable to one of the large bolts for the front seatbelts (after carefully removing the paint behind the bolt on both the car and the seatbelt). Haven't notice any problems so far.
I bet most problems you see are related to grounding and how the positive cable connects to the stock harness.
The ground connection looks so loose in the video you posted that it amazes me that the car even started.
I highly recommend running a heavy gauge wire straight to the engine block. When your main ground is so far away from the original ground, you run the risk of creating all kinds of ground loops.

That's a great idea Unlogic! I might copy you next time someone comes to me for a battery relocation.![]()
2014 Exomotive Exocet - #101 "shocker yellow" - 1.8L 5-speed 3.9 torsen FMII powered
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99 Solano Black VR4 - #16 of 287 - ground up restoration - sold
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"I don't actually work on cars, I just talk about them on the internet."
You do some profound work. Very few people are as critical. Your relocate is awesome!
On another note, I'm continually amazed to see owners with 500+ wheel horsepower neglecting to nut-and-bolt their cars. Everything works itself loose on these cars if you modify them from stock and lean on them. I properly torque bolts and continually find myself re-torquing them. They continually work themselves loose.
On all the race cars I have worked on and crew'd, the most critical task at the end of each day is nut-and-bolting. Everything works itself loose, even the engine internals. That is one of the gifts bestowed on high horsepower mitsubishi's.
Thanks guys!
For anyone interested in copying the idea these two posts contain few more photos of the construction, assembly and installation.
http://www.3sgto.org/3000gt-stealth-...tml#post229565
http://www.3sgto.org/3000gt-stealth-...tml#post229567
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