How exactly does it stall, does it sputter out or shut shut off like you shut off the ignition switch ?
How exactly does it stall, does it sputter out or shut shut off like you shut off the ignition switch ?
Shuts off like i turned the key, just wam, dead.
But the rpm's are already low because im decelerating for the turn and they just seem to miss the idle point.
1992 3000GT VR-4
DR650s,Denso 550 injectors, Walbro 255, Emanage Blue,3SX Cat Eliminator Downpipe,Short Shifter,DNP Hardpipe Kit,HKS SSQV,Underdrive pulley,Carbotech slotted rotors,RPS Lightweight Flywheel, Maximal Solid Mounts
Just so you know... your battery does not run the car once it's on: the alternator does. It's not the battery cables.
Vacuum reduction, Powdercoated misc, cruise relocate, Evo9 BOV, Custom catch cans, Russell fuel filter, SS braided fuel lines, High flow fuel loop, Autogage fuel gauge, Catless DP, DNP Y-pipe, Fuel pump hotwire.
Your IAC may be getting dirty, still working but not responding fast enough. You may want to clean it.
Have you ever tried to run your VR4 without the battery? My old Optima Red top failed a while back and although I got a jumpstart the car wouldn't run and I had to trailer it home. The car kept bucking whenever the ABS system tried to run. I actually found a paragraph in the manual that recommends unplugging the ABS ECU in the event of a very low battery because the ABS system initialization has a very high current draw that the alternator can't support on its own. The VR4 won't run without the battery unless the ABS is disabled.
I'll check on the IAC, see if it's dirty but probably this weekend as I've got some other parts to put on too.
I am just referring to my past experience. My car would act as if I had turned the key when I would make a right turn. I would hop out, go mess with the ground wire, and fire it up until the next right turn. When you start messing with electrical, anything can happen. Just ask a VW mechanic. LOL
The IAC is very simple to test (although my last one that failed tested fine...BUT it would only fail when the car was WARM, and I only tested it off the car (COLD)). It's just a series of resistance measurements.
If I would have picked up on the "warm" thing (I think Steve 92ES mentioned it), I would have tested it while beating on it with a heat gun....
If you need me to send you the section of the manual for testing it, just holler
Bob.
95 Caracus Red Spyder VR4 (sold 6/12/21 )
Cianci FG Viper Hood/Aerocatch Pins
Quad Carbon Fiber Tipped Borla Catback
Stock 18" 6 Spoke Chromies
K&N FIPK
Indiglo Gauges
JimVR4's Remote Start/Top Op Computer
92 Wheat Beige Metallic Stealth TT (sold 6/14/20)
OhioSpyderman Short Shifter (in both!!!)
SBC-iD Boost Controller (in both!!!)
Oldest son - 94 Danube Blue VR4 (sold 10/19)
Middle son - 93 Panama Green VR4
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