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Thread: Trailing Arm Removal (Axle Removal) Help Requested

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    Trailing Arm Removal (Axle Removal) Help Requested

    Trying to remove trailing arm so I can have bushings replaced on 95 VR-4.

    Spent all day trying to follow service manual procedure, but there's a couple steps I'm stuck on.

    I can't disconnect the parking brake cable (step 7) because I can't get the axle shaft out.

    Service manual shows a special tool for removing the "rear axle shaft". How do I get it out without special tool? I think I've removed the self locking nut (step 4, although not 100% sure based, seems just to be a nut on the back that was real easy to remove)...

    Step 3 is the drive shaft to companion flange mounting bolt and nut... are those four bolts/nuts? If so no problem I've got them out... if not, what is it?

    34-32.JPG

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    I haven't done this but it looks like you need the special tool or you have to fabricate something. The locking nut 180 ft lbs so I'm sure you didn't remove it yet. Yes the companion flange is the flange with 4 bolts. slide it off the axle to expose the locking nut and then figure out how to prevent the axle from turning while you break that nut loose. Check my site for how I did the rear diff seal replacement. There's a locking nut on there and I made a tool to hold the companion flange. With any luck the same kind of tool would work for what you're doing.

    You'll need a big breaker bar and a 1 1/16 inch socket if it's the same as the drive shaft nut was.

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    hmmm so after unbolting companion flange, I should be able to slide that open to find the nut... I'll try prying it open tonite...

    My work internet filter thinks your site is porn... not sure how it got categorized as such. Anyways I used a web proxy to get around that... I get the basic idea.. use crowbar thru lugs to the ground to keep wheel from turning. If that doesn't work for me, do you still have that tool you made? I could probably make something similar but finding the right piece of metal to start with might be awkward...

    I believe I do have 1 1/16" (28mm) socket... and a big breaker bar.. and a pipe that can extend the breaker bar farther (or a ratchet)....

    Anyways seems like the main thing I didn't do was open up the companion flange thing after removing the nuts & bolts.
    Last edited by enigma9o7; 03-25-2013 at 06:36 PM. Reason: updates

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    Success! Didn't have to remove the hub assembly or that nut to get trailing arm out of car... just disconnected handbrake from inside the cabin and left the cable attached.

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    Glad you got it but confused how the trailing arm could be removed with the hub still attached. Doesn't the lock nut have to come out to slide the hub out of the trailing arm?

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    I didn't need to slide the hub out of the trailing arm, I just left it in and took the whole thing to theshop to have the bushing replaced.

    But now I have a new problem... ruined the threads on my adjustable upper control arms hitting the end of the bolt with a hammer when removing it.... and now can't get the nut back on. I dunno if they are 3sx or maximal, their pictures look almost the same, and not sure if they'd just sell me one end but I dunno which shop to ask...

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    I always try to use a puller instead of a hammer. Mine are 3SX if you want to check the pics. Might try a die to recut the thread.

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