vr4 cutting/Running Issues. (Logs in side)

[Blackmount]

So I thought I'd make a thread maybe someone will find something I am not seeing.

Bought the vr4, it would cut in and out pretty bad. about about 30 boost leaks, so I did full vac reduction, and fixed all the boost leaks I could including replacing the rear turbo O ring seal thing.

Also did new plugs. Gapped em at .028

also found one of my coils on my coilpack had exploded, so I swapped that coil with another.

Car ran great for short amount of time, but once I really started driving it... it started cutting and breaking up in higher RPMS (usually around 4K)
I did a log and saw my TPS was going to Zero every now and then during WOT pulls. So I unplugged it and it would do WOT pulls fine. Figured it was the TPS.

Replaced TPS.

Fixed it. Car ran fine...well after a few days the whole problem started back up again. but this time slightly different...

1: its not as severe... most of the time it will do it lightly but I can stay in it... RPMs will keep on climbing.
2: everynow and then its bad enough to to make me let off.
3: seems the worst in 1st and 2nd. 3rd is usually when it does it lightly, sometimes 2nd.
4: happens at about 4000 rpms and up.
5: If I unplug the TPS, pulls better, but still breaks up some unlike before Also started getting knock
6: this does not seem boost dependent. It happens just as much on Waste gate, 10 PSI, 13 PSI, and 15 PSI. Knocks about the same amount on all boost levels, maybe a little more when I had it on 15 PSI

I've looked around for boost leaks and things but have found nothing so far. normal driving the car is fine, gets good MPG and everything.

I've tried swapping MAF's
NO CEL's

Things I am going to try

Re gap plugs
check Ignition timing
Boost leak test
Try and hunt down someone with a Turbo ECU I can swap out to see if it will make it run any better.

I've posted logs. If you see anything out of the norm please say so.

:Edit: I cannot get logs to upload as attachments I will try to figure something out, I can email them to you by request.

[CoopKill]

google drive, host them, post link

[Greg E]

Finally got a chance to read this. Sticking to my comments I sent you on Facebook.

If your car was sitting for a long time after it was wrecked and before you bought it I would bet you another taco the issues comes from rust in the gas tank.

[CoopKill]

Easy check to pull the filter.

Edit: FilterS...

[Blackmount]

Good news, Its NOT the ecu, someone was very nice and brought me a known good 1G ECU, to let me try and there was no change... so that makes me feel better as a new ECU is mighty expensive lol.

[Street_Chally73]

I'm with Greg on this one, dude. Mine pretty much did the same thing when I first got it, but it cleared up quite nicely after changing out the old fuel filter...Then again, it didn't help that whoever had previously installed the FF had the flow pattern reversed!!!

$20 from Cherry Hill. . I'm putting another one in my car shortly after getting it running again just because it has sat for over two years while I collected parts/paid off bills.


Sent from the garage

[Blackmount]

Yeah ill probably order one today. Maybe a new fuel pump like a 255.

[Blackmount]

I realized something today as I was running errands with the vr4.

My Temps in my car while driving never reach what they should ever since I installed my Big Dual core radiator (yes its a true dual core, and I do not have fans) Unless I let it sit and idle for 5-10 mins...

Well I was letting it idle as I ran into a store quick. came out, hopped in it, started driving... and I thought hmmm... I've never tried a pull while it was this warm.

So, as quickly as I could I got to a open no traffic road where I could do some pulls, 1-3 all the way to redline no problems.. Usually I have to shift anywhere between 4000-5750rpms because it starts to cut... so I was like Oh sweet!. well as temps started to drop, I did another set of pulls, and it started cutting. as temps dropped it started to cut earlier and earlier.

Thanks to Greg E the ECU is programmed to run a certain way >180* F, and I remember in one of my logs temps were bouncing around 140-160*. I am unsure of what Thermostat is in this car, so I cam going to try to replace it with a OEM Mitsu one and see what happens. (it might not have one at all)

Before my stock radiator was raped by my severely damaged radiator fan, car was reaching optimal temps, and pulling normally... and now that I think about it, Since the installation of this new radiator, I have had these problems..

also for the sake of saying so, I did try regapping my plugs (0.030) and doing a FP Relay Bypass with no change.

[Blackmount]

Well, I think I got it fixed today, Discovered a short in my wiring harness, and tore the whole thing apart, replaced about 4 plugs and half the wiring with a parts harness I had laying around....

(the problem area was at the coil packs).

Car now pulls to redline no issues.

Would like to think

Greg, Bob, Steve, Corey, Etc. and all the chatboxers that put up with me and gave me tips on things to try to fix it.

[Greg E]

You still need to replace your thermostat. The car will run smoother when it's not running so rich.