If you end up parting with the 16gs lmk
If you end up parting with the 16gs lmk
Still parting with them
Ok, sooooooo... It's been a really long time since I updated this thread. I've been working on getting a raise at work, and going through some crazy things the last couple months. So I've only made a little progresshere's some pics of where the engine sits nowimage.jpg Installing the new ss valves.
image.jpg New Brian Crower springs+retainers
image.jpg Reworked combustion chambers
image.jpg Heads torqued on to 105ft lbs with new oem head bolts
image.jpg turbos mocked up. I'm going to have to deal with these little guys till I move in to the new place And can buy some FP Greens. Still need to buy cams and a solid timing belt kit
I like the wrinkle red paint. any more pic of the valve cover.
those lil guys? haha, those are some nice turbos! although, fp greens have struck my interest as to how well they fit. good to see some progress. +1 on the wrinkle red
Such a nice looking engine! Hopefully it will be ready for NG14 and you and R/T93 can caravan to PA, I'm sure he'd like the company lol.
Thanks! My goal is to have the car running/driving by spring.
So I might not be able to get the FP greens right away like I wanted. But, forced performance has a killer deal on mhi td05 20gs. Is anyone running these, and what is the spool time like? If I can make full boost 25-30psi by around 4500rpm, I'll be happy.
16gs seem to be a better match for a 3.0 (1.5l each turbo) then 20gs. Look at a 20g compressor map. The pressure ratios needed to make big power on a 1.5l are off the map for a 20g which starts off life with a big high flowing td06 turbine. When you put it on a td05 turbine and then crank up the boost, it isn't in its "happy zone." That's where billet wheels come in though if they are designed to like 30+ psi.
My suggestion would be to keep the 16gs and crank them up. Chris hill (Nina performance) has made 715awhp on evoIII 16gs with E95, stock heads and cams. Then when you want more, go to something with a billet comp wheel. 68hta, 71hta, FP green, etc.
Why tq the stock head bolts to 105? My understanding is all they did was stretch.
Nice looking engine BTW!!!!!!
1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.
Ya I guess your right, I just needed a second opinion. I didn't know how well of a match 1.5l was for a 20g, I knew it would be a bit off the charts though lol looks like ill max the e3s out first then go from there.
I went off how Chris installs his head bolts on his builds, torque in sequence up to 105 with factory bolts. The only thing he has that I don't is an o-ringed block, which I hope I won't need for rarely seeing above 30psi
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